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Posted

Hi guys,

 

Working on an AS2063 and stumbling on how to assemble the parts for the automatic winding.

 

The photo shows the parts as they should sit under the cover.

 

But all the parts are under tension from two opposite springs and just ”sitting there ” on single sided pivots until I can get the cover on. And the parts just won’t sit there stably and the springs are flying all over the place (knees hurting from sliding around on the floor to find them).

 

Is there a magic trick here ?

 

Sometimes you can push springs into position after having losely positioned the cover but on this one it’s all nicely covered and I can’t access anything with the cover on.

 

If there’s any experience out there from this or similar designs, I’m grateful for any help.

 

f24892b232a1c51ec6a67d7ab083785c.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Posted

Long time since working on this movement . But thinking as the spring has such an odd shape. They are ment to be put in after the cover is on? 

Posted

You may be on to something....

The click spring can be managed after putting the cover on and not tightening the screw. There are parts sticking out that can be pushed until the click catches onto the wheel.

For the other spring, I just noted that the cover is thinned out at the edge where the spring is sitting under. Might be enough room to push the outer leg of the spring in with an oiler until it goes into the recess...?

Will try when not so tired. Bad idea to end the evening with a spring flying into space ....

Not the most brilliant design this one though...





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Posted

Tjena!
You haven't choosen the easiest one to work with but I can try to guide you through this. Keep in mind there is as many styles to work on this bridge as there are pore souls servicing them. bot here we go.
I start with the guts out and pick the into place as we go.

1. So first i put in the click spring..

2. Next the click. This part has no tension yet.

3.In with the intermediate wheel assembly

AS1.jpg

AS2.jpg

AS3.jpg

AS4.jpg

Posted

It's now your skills with the peg wood and tweezers come into play, push the long part of the spring against the lever and drop it into place. or just squeze it toghether with the tweezers and drop it into plave. The design of the springs allow you to compress these with the tweezers. But I'm old style.

AS5.jpg

Posted (edited)

Now I use the notch in an razorblade to align the wheel. You need some hight ifference to make the pinion to go clear. Donn't worrie about aligning the wheel yet!

AS6.jpg

AS7.jpg

Edited by HSL
Posted

When it is aligned you now gently align the lever and click into place, they are springloaded so you just can push them downward into place.

AS9.jpg

Posted

And at last remember the screws had a slight size difference, you should now be good to go...

Lycka till!

AS10.jpg

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Posted

Hi,

That’s an absolutely amazing work-through!

The main picture is your no. 7 that clearly shows where I went wrong and tried to position the wheel where it should eventually be, causing the springs to be loaded and the whole assembly unstable and ready to fire off at any slight movement, like putting the cover on.

In the mean time I fumbled along the idea to push in the spring from the side with a fine oiler. I have attached a photo showing the side view with the slot between the base and the cover.

After (too) many trials I think I got it there.

But I think your method is more correct and general as an approach to tricky designs. No load on springs and then position the parts with the cover in place.

8affa4997b1b5285e95b69e437f81fab.jpgt49f5d418bdeff5ff789e9c148c49e03a.jpg





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Posted

Another thing...

I guess one has to lubricate this thing after the assembly?

My take would be some 9020 on positions/pivots that can be accessed from outside.

Would you agree?




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Posted

I guess 9020 is fair enough but I usually just by lazyness use the standard lubrication as seen in the picture, even if the AS 2063 doesn't look like this I would have used the HP-1300 (9104) instead. But everything that works is good...

Lubrication.jpg

Posted

Yes the two oils are almost the same except the HP-1300 (9104) has slightly higher pressure tolerance since they thought the torque from the rotating oscillator is quite big.
It is also a litle bit stickier and a notch more slipery, the price for these properties is a bit higher viscosity (mostly from the higher pressure tolerance).
That said I most say I also use the 9020 but more in pocket watches where there is a higher torque in general.
By the way I forgot to say Good work with the mechanism! (I been outsde moving the lawn and putting the greenhouse nr:2 into shape but I say it now :) .)

Posted

Hi and thanks for adding some background to the use of these oils.

Generally I find lubrication complicated and like you say, there is probably a lot of overlap between oils and where to use them.

I usually tinker with older movements from 40-60’s and I can’t help seeing the parallell with a discussion over what hi-grade synthetic oil to use in your old Volvo Amazon. That thing would run on anything, just as my old watches are probably happy with the 9020 all over.

Different of course with a moden precision design from a prestige maker. And the parallell with a modern car is valid there as well. Wouldn’t let anyone close without a proper degree and tools

Good luck with the green house, had one set-up for my wife last year and that was pretty tiring work. Glass weighs a lot!




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