Not Repair But Refinishing Advice.

[ro63rto]

Need some advice.

Scratched one of my favourite watches.

It has a vertically brushed finish top and polished sides.

Scratch

Better pic of brushed finish

I was thinking of using the "softest" side of a 4 step nail buffing pad but not sure if that's going to be too harsh.

Any guidance greatly appreciated.

[Geo]

I've made a couple of posts regarding refinishing, if you use the search facility you should find them.

Regarding your watch, I would suggest that you get hold of an old stainless watch case and polish it. Once you have polished it, experiment with different grades of fine wet or dry paper until you find the grade that matches the striations on your watch. Once you have found that, use the same paper to produce the finish on your watch. You must ensure that you apply the paper in the same direction as the original finish.

[ro63rto]

Hi Geo. Thanks.

I did try a search but since I updated Tapatalk the other day it has been giving spurious results as well as a whole host of other problems.

I'll try and log in via a browser and find the post.

Your method of practising on an old bracelet makes sense.

Got lots of wet&dry grades since doing work on my car.

Thanks

Edited November 25, 2014 by ro63rto

[Mark]

Need some advice.

Scratched one of my favourite watches.

It has a vertically brushed finish top and polished sides.

I was thinking of using the "softest" side of a 4 step nail buffing pad but not sure if that's going to be too harsh.

Any guidance greatly appreciated.

 

The problem you may run into is matching the grain you currently have. The watch would originally have been finished with an abrasive wheel mounted on a motor and spinning at quite a speed. And this will be quite difficult to emulate with some emery paper, not impossible, but difficult.

 

Geo gave good advise regarding a practice piece. But when it comes to this watch I would think carefully as it will be easy to make it look worse as getting straight lines takes a lot of practice. Therefore, as mentioned, test piece is essential.

I would also be careful with the glass as the abrasive you use can actually scratch the glass as well. 

 

Nice watch by the way :)

[ro63rto]

The problem you may run into is matching the grain you currently have. The watch would originally have been finished with an abrasive wheel mounted on a motor and spinning at quite a speed. And this will be quite difficult to emulate with some emery paper, not impossible, but difficult.

Geo gave good advise regarding a practice piece. But when it comes to this watch I would think carefully as it will be easy to make it look worse as getting straight lines takes a lot of practice. Therefore, as mentioned, test piece is essential.

I would also be careful with the glass as the abrasive you use can actually scratch the glass as well.

Nice watch by the way :)

Thanks. My brother liked it too back in 2004 when I bought it. Ended up buying him a mint one that had an alkaline cell. Seller thought it was faulty [emoji1] .

Because his is as new I now want to descratch mine.

I will definitely mask off the crystal before finally doing it.

Wonder if a dremel clamped into a vice with a suitable sanding flappy wheel would work better than a sheet of extremely fine wed&dry wrapped around a stiff sponge. I'd have to have a fence to one side to run it straight though.

Time to dig out some old spare bracelets.

Thanks Geo & Mark.

[bobm12]

Hi Ro63rto,

 

I wouldn't recommend a dremel since the wheels are too small and the speed to high for a good control...at least that's my feel when I use it. In any case, to improve your chances here is a fixture you can use:

 

 

Still, if you are to refinish it, I would recommend at least a 3 in. wheel (regular full size motor) and if possible some sort of hand vise to hold/guide the watch. Geo has some very useful tips in his finishing posts like for example, shaping a piece of wood to match the watch surface you will be sanding to guide the sand paper, etc. (check out his Seiko chronometer post too).

Edited November 26, 2014 by bobm12

[Geo]

A Dremel definitely has its uses when grinding and polishing, but being power tool it is all too easy to wash away sharp edges and profiles. I do use one for some work with great care.

Here are a couple of links to posts that I made on refinishing.

http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/443-titanium/

http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/854-re-finishing-tip/

[WillFly]

I'm always very conservative in my attitude to case and dial finishes, wear and tear, and so on. Part of this is born from my 50 years of using and dealing with guitars.

 

Working guitars, like working watches, will get wear and tear over the years. The edges can get dinged - knocked against chairs and tables - the surfaces can get scratched by fingernails, plectrums, belt buckles. scuffs and wear around the tuners and the tuning pegs at the other, etc., etc. So, the question arises: should the guitar perhaps be sanded down and refinished, re-lacquered? I think virtually every luthier I've known has said "No - clean off dirt if necessary - give it a clean and gentle polish if necessary - but don't mess with the natural patina of age".

 

I suppose that's why, with watches, I take a similar line. Things that we wear regularly will acquire the marks of that wear - unless, of course, we have major disasters, in which case more drastic action is called for. Looking at the pics of your watch, I see nothing that really needs to be done - and my pardon if the problem is worse in the flesh than in the photo!

 

I would accept the scratch rather than mess with the Natural History of the watch. Just my two-penn'orth...

[ro63rto]

Will. Completely agree if its a vintage watch but this is a relatively modern one.

The main scratch is the horizontal line just outside the crystal at the 7 o'clock position in the first pic. There are lots of other smaller ones that can be seen in natural light too.

[bobm12]

Hi Ro63rto,

 

I agree with Will, there is nothing wrong with your watch according to the pics. Just shine it with a treated microfiber cloth. I got this one for "free" in a promotion.

 

Bob

[Blacklab]

I use the Dremel carefully on stainless steel, cotton mop & polish on the shiny bits, scotchbrite type attachment for the brushed bits. Results are good.