Jump to content

6497/6498 in a pocket watch case - What dial?


Recommended Posts

Many videos recommend a 6497/6498 as your first movement to practice on because they are larger, more in line with the size of a pocket watch movement.  So I thought "Well, if my first project is going to be with a pocket watch-size movement, I should probably build a pocket watch."  

As I was making a parts list for the project, I realized all the dials I found have the stem at 3:00.  A true pocket watch has the stem at 12:00.  

Am I just not looking hard enough to find the right dials, or do all 6497/6498 compatible dials have the stem at 3:00?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I correct when I say that the 6498 has the stem at 3:00 and the second hand at 9:00 while the 6497 has the stem at 12:00 and the second hand at 6:00?

 

If so then that is probably where I'm making my mistake...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,  Your best bet is to keep radar on for a wacth sold for parts or repair, So to make a good watch out of the best parts of the two. Advantages are;

1. You have time to find the answers, learn more about the piece.

2. You wouldn,t have to pay expensively for individual parts

3. You end up with extra parts for spare or sale.

Google will tell you lots about it. Dr ranfft and the like.

Some hunters versions made by unitas were fitted with porcelain dial, some dials got no feet. Later version perhaps made by ETA.

Collecting thought me to get several of the same needing work. You will do much better with your second project if one of the same or same family as Similar ones on your bench are actual diagrams and answers to some questions.

4. You will be in a postion to help others.

Second lesson I learned is to take and archive pictures at each stage of strip down. 

Regards joe.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
    • Yep, that's exactly how it should fit. The reamer shank is tapered and the socket in the spindle is also tapered so that the one centers in the other and is gripped tightly. If there is any wobble when the reamer is seated as far it will go then there is a problem. The cross hole in the spindle is to allow you the push the reamer back out again. If the reamer seated much deeper then it would limit the access for pushing it back out again. Here is one of mine for comparison.
×
×
  • Create New...