Leaderboard

Like it. I could use one of those.

Lift angle for the 7S26C is 52 degrees, I would assume that it is the same for earlier incarnations of the 7S26. I believe that Seiko's tend to have slightly lower amplitude compared to Swiss calibres but I would expect to see in the region of >260 degrees in the horizontal positions (dial up, dial down) with no less than 240 degrees in the vertical positions, no more than 25 degrees difference between horizontal and vertical for a movement in top order. 220 to 235 degrees does seem a little low. You should also be getting around 40 hours power reserve from fully wound. As this movement does not hand wind, how are you ensuring that you are testing from fully wound? A few hours on the wrist may not be sufficient for a full wind unless you are very active. Also, when you reassembled it did you put the winding rotor back in the correct orientation? Believe it or not this makes a difference to the efficiency of the Seiko magic lever auto winding system. If you are testing from fully wound then you would seem to be losing power somewhere. What did you use to grease the barrel wall (and how much did you use). The wrong grease here can result in the bridle slipping way too soon leaving you with less torque (lower amplitude) and shorter power reserve. Also excessive frictional losses in the train can have a similar effect, how free running was the train when you put it all back together? Did you get the escape wheel to recoil at all before you installed the pallet fork? Did the pallet fork snap across smartly from side to side with only a tiny bit of power in the main spring? What oils did you use in the train and for the pallet jewels? If all of the above is as it should be then is it possible that the wrong mainspring has been installed at some time? Even though it isn't set I would probably start with a new spring (assuming no undue losses in the train) and then go from there.

The 1st. thing that comes to mind is a broken/missing pivot.