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There appears to be no way of editing a post... so I'll add the other pics here.

Had an interview today and wore this for luck. I had this overhauled over the Summer and it is a handsome piece indeed. Month, day, weekday are set..the moon phase...maybe I can count the clicks? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Here's my collection: 1. Father-in-Law's old Tag 2000, model #973.006. He left me this in his will. 2. Link Calibre 36. Model CT511B. I bought this new 14 years ago, and has been my daily worn watch for almost as long. 3. Carrera Calibre 17 re-edition, CV211A #365 of 500 4. 1940s vintage Heuer, 14k gold with what I was told was a Landeron Calibre 13 movement. I believe it to be model 333, but it's very difficult to pin down. 5. 11630 Heuer Autavia, with the MH bezel. I'm not sure this is the original. 6. Automatic Seiko diving watch, 7002-7000 A1. Not used for diving though. That's what my Sunnto D4i or Vyper Air is for. 7. Pre moon Speedmaster 105.012-65. My pride and joy. According to the extract from the archives, it was born march 1966 and spent its formative years in France. 8. "Watchco style" Seamaster 300. All NOS apart from the donor 565 movement. Also not used for diving. 9. Constellation F300hz - tuning fork movement (1250) 10. Omega 2300/3 Cal T17.8 11. Poljot Alarm Cheers, Jason

Well done in regulating it but it would probably benefit from a service if its loosing alot when was it last done.

Hey there !! Kinda sorta. About a year ago I overhauled a Seiko 7S36, self-teaching myself with info on the web, including WRT. It turned out well & was a lot of fun, too. This Seiko 6347 I'm working on now needs some TLC, & I just want to be sure I get it right. I think it's the only total mechanical moon phase Seiko ever made, with other styles, of course. Seems to be an oddball, as well. I really like it. When will you be making the "Deep Dive" ? Cheers !!

Greetings! I see you are getting ready for a "deep dive" into watchmaking

Hi Rogart, So today I found out that the rotor bearing for the ETA 2824-2 is in fact exactly the same as required for the ETA 2784! It appears that my initial visual judgement of the size was incorrect. When I measured both with calipers, they both measure 5.55mm in diameter. I have fitted the part to my watch and its working perfectly and the noise has gone away! Thank you so much for your help, its much appreciated.

You might try checking this out for ideas on long lived outdoor clocks. Clock of the Long Now

Some nice watches. Especially like the vintage stuff.

Today I'm wearing this BWC with a Landeron 248. Case, crown, pushers, dial and hands are in terrible condition, but I bought it some weeks ago to service my first chronograph. It was dead on arrival and now it runs well, even the chronograph functions. Nice story with this: I had a lot of trouble with the minute counter which didn't switch and stopped the watch. As I work as an engineer in the automotive industry, I'm always thinking about geometrical problems. So I spent about 10 hours working on the eccentrics and the jumper to find the correct setting but didn't get it. In the end the solution was dirt in the bearing of the minute counter which caused too high friction. When I told this to my girlfriend she couldn't stop laughing. "Well, you may be a pro in geometrical affairs but cleaning is not your cup of tea." I have really no idea why she said that...

Thank you. Funnily enough, I was speaking to our local jeweller today about getting them all revalued. I forgot to attach pics of the Carrera or the 40s heuer. Here they are:

I use toothpicks and nail art wood sticks in different sizes? 100 pieces for little money. Nail art wood sticks are the same as pegwood. From orange wood.

Yep gentle pressure on the top plate then start at the furthest wheel, I use a yellow oiler as it's the thickest to move the wheels into their respective positions, you'll get it in pretty quick time mate don't worry. What I will agree on is putting one wheel at a time, do up the plates use your blower to spin the wheel if it's free take apart and remove them place in the second wheel and do the same, when you have done all four wheels start with the first two making sure they spin then add the third then the fourth. It's abit long winded but you endure all wheels spin as they should. dont worry a pit oils and greases straight away, you will need them obviously, but the movement will run without any lubrication, if it does then you know you've done a good job.