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I was thinking it might be nice to see a picture up above or the picture I'm going to paste down below from up above with the escape wheel just setting their. Then it almost looks like the lower jewel is out quite a ways? But maybe it's an optical illusion with the shellac yes the assortment set over time have become something other than what they once were. Like it work with a assortment of Waltham jewels for burnishing in and the last time I tried to find one I discovered there all randomly assorted. Then of course often times the assortments had a tiny quantity of things and the entire container got re-tasked for other things and down the road somebody sells it totally clueless of what they're selling. But in the case of roller jewel's especially after the longer ones of pocket watch size for a single roller then randomly and bottles is definitely good. If you really careful you may bill to place the roller jewel on a flat surface and use calipers although a bench micrometer really is preferred. -
Have you search for a new winding crown using Tissot case id? You can also find a replacement crown by size / type of the crown you currently have: https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/tissot-crowns-by-size They are dirt cheap. -
yes the pocketwatch database shows quite a spread in those serial numbers. With the watches typically made in batches and even in a batch from the beginning to the end there be some variations. Then you have approximately a 10 year difference between the two yes some of the stuff will probably not fit especially escapement components as there usually adjusted at the time of manufacturing and of course manufacturing tolerances were improving with time. https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/elgin/36764469 Grade: 315 Model: 3 Class: 114 Estimated Production Year: 1937 Run Quantity: 4,000 Grade/Model Run: 310 of 329 https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/elgin/19110954 Grade: 315 Model: 3 Class: 114 Estimated Production Year: 1917 Run Quantity: 2,000 Grade/Model Run: 127 of 329
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Hope you let the mainspring completely unwind before removing the bridge? Use not only a screwdriver, but a pair of good tweezers with curved ends. This will allow to move various sides of the bridge straight up while keeping it in parallel with the main plate. If you use a screwdriver only and top pivot is stuck, then a bridge is being lifted under angle and then you hear that "horrible click". Usually it takes only one instance to learn such lesson in life 😅
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Regarding the spring winders, I made my own and used copper pipe reducers as the tubes to retain the spring. You will need to cut out a section for the end of the spring to protrude but if you watch one of the many videos on this subject that will make sense. You can find a selection of sizes on Ebay for very little cost. I'll attach a pic showing one of mine. Good luck!
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