Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys, I'm pretty sure that the mainspring barrel in the photos is a sealed unit, though no material houses I've checked seem to stock the part. Besides from lubricating the barrel arbor is there anything I can do with this to keep it in good working order until I find a spare? Thanks in advance!

S1.jpg

S2.jpg

S3.jpg

Posted

Back in the 70’ and 80’s these units were plentiful and you just ordered a new one. Seiko used to require that the unit should be replaced (I think) every 5 or 7 years. So you should not really take them apart. Times have changed and parts have become obsolete. Follow Marks video which oli has kindly found for you and providing you are careful you should be alright.  

  • Like 1
Posted
It looks like the same design as the 7S26 barrel
Mark made a video about it, the same procedure probably applies 

 
Thanks!

Sent from my Redmi 4X using Tapatalk

Posted
Back in the 70’ and 80’s these units were plentiful and you just ordered a new one. Seiko used to require that the unit should be replaced (I think) every 5 or 7 years. So you should not really take them apart. Times have changed and parts have become obsolete. Follow Marks video which oli has kindly found for you and providing you are careful you should be alright.  

Thanks very much for the advice, got it sorted. I was just finishing up the service and refitting the diashock spring on the balance cock, when it pinged off, only to show up stuck to my sock a half hour of searching layer :)

Sent from my Redmi 4X using Tapatalk



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I measure the movement as 23.42mm diameter. I guess that'd be called 10.5'''. I don't currently have access to bestfit. I believe this watch is from 1920 or 1921. That predates Bulova's stamping of a symbol to represent year of manufacture and may predate their systematic movement codes. In any case, there is no movement number stamped on it.  It was based on a Frey ebauche, but so far knowing that hasn't helped me.
    • That makes sense. Thanks. And I will now always remember checking that while I assemble the watch.  This is where I’m at now.    Here’s is an update on the watch. I haven’t worked on the watch since, but I seems like the watch is now running perfect if he don’t wind it fully up. If he just wind it almost fully up, it doesn’t seem to stop.. and it stops after some time if he wind it fully up. 
    • Thank you.  I have found John Vernon's "Grandfather Clock Maintenance Manual" very helpful in explaining the basics.  Unfortunately I have now discovered that the fly has a broken pivot which has rather set me back.  I will have to try to source one from somewhere.
    • OMG,  that means all pins my magnet liked were made of copper. 
    • Yes, this is on the basis of no epilam. Interestingly, the technical guide calls for using HP1300 instead of grease on a lot of stuff in the keyless works which might indicate an assumption that it had all been treated with epilam.    This, exactly I suppose . Literally trying to get a more, or less, viscous oil by mixing two different oils together. Obviously you would imagine using oils from the same 'family' would make them more compatible.    Actually, I knew this. Everyone seems to use HP1300 to substitute D5 but Moebius actually recommend their HP oils only for jewelled bearings. If it's a brass bushing D5 is best.  Interested what the outcome might be if I used 9020 on the balance/ escape wheel pivots of a typical wristwatch sized movement. The practical consequence of this would be having to service the movement again if it doesn't work but actually the real consequence is that you have bought 2ml of extremely expensive oil that you might not use again. 
×
×
  • Create New...