Hey JBerry, not late to the party at all! Read on…
John, what kind of cloth do you use? I have been using watchmaker’s tissue paper soaked in Horolene but the result is not what I’d like, mainly towards the centre where it is all very close together. I came across Mark’s video where he places the mainspring in a separate basket with no dividers on it’s own and then another basket with parts on the top of it. Should you want to see it, it’s here, time 8:28 I haven’t decided which ultrasonic to go for as yet although I’m leaning towards the S10H. The price is steep considering that the basket needs to be purchased separately, several beakers for the solutions, beaker holder and even basket support clips to minimalise damage to the tank and basket! It all adds up. I was and still am tempted to save the money and buy a cheap one but I already have one that does not work, most importantly they tend to have 5 min limit, it’s not enough for 2 or more cycles. The S Line can be set from 1 to 30 minutes and have safety cut out after 12 hours continuous use.
I also have the Suprol Pro and will certainly try it out. I contacted Elma, they recommended the 1:9 and the Suprol Pro for ultrasonic bath and watch parts, that’s why I purchased them. I would contact them again if I have residue on parts and ask them whether I’m doing anything wrong. They manufacture it and should have an answer to that. Knowing myself I’ll probably end up trying all different solutions, Greiner, L&R and see what works best. Pitty they don’t sell small testers.
Have you had the S10 a while and or used it extensively? I presume you don’t use the IPA on the pallet fork and impulse pin, how do you rinse off the 1:9?
Guys, thank you very much for your input.
It all depends upon whose procedures you going to follow?
Let's see if I can figure out how to word so not confusing? So there is probably more than two methods but originally when I was in school I was taught to evaluate the watch make your repairs once the watch is functional then it's Disassembled and cleaned and we go off with assembly lubrication rating etc. The reason for this is once the watch is nice and clean and properly lubricated other than minor regulation if you have to be disassembling the watch or taking the balance wheel out multiple times you will screw up the lubrication. That means if you screw it up you basically have to clean it again and start over.
In modern shops and the modern schools there now teaching pre-cleaning. They do not like to work on dirty watches they like clean watches because they feel they can see things better. So movement assembled is run through a special machine They usually has a shorter cleaning cycle. The other reason it's a separate machine is to keep the cleaning fluid in the final cleaning machine much cleaner. Now you can evaluate the watch do the repairs on a clean watch then it's taken all apart Clean and lubricated minor regulation same as above then.
@Maxppp If you have never serviced a watch before I do recommend you practice on something else first, for example a Vostok 2409. It's a stunning timepiece you have there and there's a real risk you'll damage something or lose a part which might become very difficult to replace. There's always a risk, even when you're experienced but with experience you'll learn to minimize the risks.
Best of luck!
Any way suggest the best way of removing this screw.
Do not want to drill it incase i destroy the thread.
Ain,t there some chemical i can use that will dissolve the screw but not the bridge?