Jump to content

Welded Watch Stem


Recommended Posts

Has anyone welded a watch stem to make it longer? I'm referring to the case where there is not enough thread left for screwing in an extender. I wonder if there is a way to weld the extender to secure it to the stem. Thank you in advance for procedures, advise and/or tools needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not welded a stem, but I have silver soldered one that had snapped off right at the bottom. I had to do this because I could no find a replacement.

It's pretty fiddly and I did have to make a fixture to hold the parts in correct alignment. Also yo will need a watchmakers lathe to turn off the excess and make a nice finish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Geo, much appreciated.

 

How do you silver solder? Do you use a soldering iron?

 

I've seen acetylene torches for jewelers, -- and also something that looks like a crème brule torch -- they seem very small but mimicking the real thing. I thought some of those might have to be used because of the type of metal. But then, I don't know much about welding, soldering or anything related other than a bunch of theory learned when I was in school -- ancient stuff -- and the regular tin solder for electrical components and such...not too involved, not even electronic components/circuits. I believe, as far as soldering and such is concerned, my clock stopped in the '70s!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bob.

Using silver solder is similar to brazing, but uses a lot less heat. You will need a micro torch, silver solder and flux. When silver soldering I wear clear goggles rather than green to prevent me overheating the work.

1) First make a fixture or use small clamps to keep the parts in alignment, but also ensure that they hold the work in such a way that they don't create a massive heat sink.

2) Align the parts carefully and secure tightly.

3) Apply some flux where the parts are to be joined.

4) Heat parts to dull cherry red.

5) Using a very thin piece of silver solder, touch the joint. The solder should ideally melt from the contained within the work, but due to its size may require just the slightest heat from the torch at this point.

6) Allow to cool and finish off as required.

If you have not done any brazing or silver soldering before, I would suggest taking the parts to a competent jeweller to have done.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure you practice on a few test pieces first!

If you have access to a watchmakers lathe, it's a good idea to square off the broken end of the stem without the thread, but remove only the least amount of material possible to get a square surface.

Now drill a small hole about 1 - 2mm deep in the end you have just machined. Get another stem with the same thread as the broken one and cut off the threaded section. Turn the end of this down to the same diameter of the hole that you drilled in the original part.

These two parts should slip together and help keep alignment when you clamp the parts for silver soldering.

I wish you the best of luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bob,

 

You also need to find out why it snapped in the first place..

 

Rust?...make sure surface is free of any rust before soldering.

 

Hard to wind/set? ... if you don't solve thisthen chances it may happen again..

 

HTH

Anil

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

been hiding...!

 

but really, my work does not allow me as much time for my hobby as I would like.. I know its unbelievable in this day and age but I travel fequently (internationally) and my internet access is dependant on the hotel ;-(. Data plans which work in several countries are too expensive and potentially very expensive.

 

I work as a loadmaster for cargo aircraft, watches fill the time between contracts!

 

Anil

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Is the crystal gasket a hard gasket ? The overall size you are aiming for H is 36.9, so whatever combo size of glass and gasket  closest to this, one above and one below. What type of gasket is involved ?
    • I don't understand why did You use the bubble wrap. If You think there is any use to hold the thing exactly in the middle of the hole - wrong, there is no matter, just pass it tru the hole and take it away to at least 40 cm before release of the button. If You reduce the current, then You reduce the field strenght too, thus not alowing the tool to be demagnetised if it is holding stronger field than the coil can create. My advice is to eat You breakfast (for more muscle strenght) and to fix the demagnetiser to the table or bench top with some clamp so You will be able to use the both hands, then ask You wife to press the button for You...
    • In WW2 they used to demag submarines. 
    • You know when you pass pieces through the hole, how far do you continue to move them away from the demag ?   With the blue china ones if i don't move the steel far enough away it doesn't fully demag it , i also carry out the process twice. For a tenner its working perfectly for me up to now. Thats a big jobby Jon, even though the blue effort is working fine for me this will look well cool sat in the corner of the watchroom and might pull a few lost parts from their hidding places as a bonus . Flick the switch with a bargepole from the doorway to avoid a zinging barrel arbor taking an eyeball out.
    • Yup, I have one of those up in my shed and it's extremely effective. I picked mine up at a car boot sale for a couple of quid because nobody knew what it was. Mine looks like it came out of the Ark so I guess that they've been around for a long time. Generally for watch stuff I use an equally ancient pass through type which is usually sufficient but for really stubborn items, particularly tools I use the Eclipse.
×
×
  • Create New...