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New machine for the shop


measuretwice

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I just finished painting this and thought you guys would get a kick out of it.  Its a Hauser M1 watchmaker's jig borer.   

I normally worry about getting my machines in good mechanical shape and don't care about paint (if you're using them, the paint will look like crap after a year of chips and coolant in any event) but this little one was worth it.  Its primary used by watchmakers as a jig borer and mill.    Its direct reading off the dials in ten thousands of an inch with lead error correction (the marker for the dial moves and follows a profile to correct for any screw error).  Now it is a jig borer, but I'll say it is the nicest machine I've put my hands on, and that includes many of the worlds best names including other swiss stuff.  Exceptionally well made.

i bought yet another mill and lathe before Christmas and ended bringing this one home as well, they don't come up often and it just too cute.  Wear is negligible with the original scraping well defined everywhere.  The only flaw was the paint was literally falling in big chips - another good reason to paint it.  I chipped all the old paint off, it was so thick, feathering it was a real challenge, so just took it all off.

I have the spindle (8mm collet) and drill gimbal but I'm going to have to make the microscope.  Used for locating, the microscope is an important accessory as they are also used as an very toolmakers microscope.

I have the original stand, but no room for it at the moment.  They powered these things from a motor hanging from post, much like a foredom.  The ideas was to isolate the machine from vibration....not sure yet how I'll go about it but I've some ideas

9Vphc58.jpg

uvxKHfs.jpg

gLz7BWm.jpg

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I just finished painting this and thought you guys would get a kick out of it.  Its a Hauser M1 watchmaker's jig borer.   
I normally worry about getting my machines in good mechanical shape and don't care about paint (if you're using them, the paint will look like crap after a year of chips and coolant in any event) but this little one was worth it.  Its primary used by watchmakers as a jig borer and mill.    Its direct reading off the dials in ten thousands of an inch with lead error correction (the marker for the dial moves and follows a profile to correct for any screw error).  Now it is a jig borer, but I'll say it is the nicest machine I've put my hands on, and that includes many of the worlds best names including other swiss stuff.  Exceptionally well made.
i bought yet another mill and lathe before Christmas and ended bringing this one home as well, they don't come up often and it just too cute.  Wear is negligible with the original scraping well defined everywhere.  The only flaw was the paint was literally falling in big chips - another good reason to paint it.  I chipped all the old paint off, it was so thick, feathering it was a real challenge, so just took it all off.
I have the spindle (8mm collet) and drill gimbal but I'm going to have to make the microscope.  Used for locating, the microscope is an important accessory as they are also used as an very toolmakers microscope.
I have the original stand, but no room for it at the moment.  They powered these things from a motor hanging from post, much like a foredom.  The ideas was to isolate the machine from vibration....not sure yet how I'll go about it but I've some ideas
9Vphc58.jpg&key=76b9a0c88cb9d0b095f0d0f5987ba258222ff216884641ec46f0d5c0477a302e
uvxKHfs.jpg&key=16860d947c2a8f295da54e050771eef64ccfa9fd1cba156c332f232f9d5f10dd
gLz7BWm.jpg&key=058c85bb9aa5283cac1c6f1de36b5010628e066e48dfcaf1422faf32bc975066

That’s nice I bet it’s heavy well done


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looking cool is its main function  :).  A jig borer is primarily used to make holes - very, very accurately placed holes.  It can also be used for light milling, which anything in watchmaking pretty much is.   This particular  machine is highly favoured by watchmakers because of its small size and accuracy.

Of all the machines I've got, it'll probably be the least used, but I like the tools and its been on the wish for a long time.  The law of diminishing returns has definitely pushed this toolaholic way out on the skinny side of derived utility, but I'm still having fun :)

 

 

 

 

 

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    • So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
    • Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
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