Jump to content

Please help me with my Casio watch.

Sentinel

By Sentinel
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sentinel New Member

Sentinel

Posted
Posted

Sometimes when you try to fix things you only make them worse…
So, in an attempt to remove some minor scratches from my new Casio watch, I attempted the toothpaste trick. It didn’t work and I ended up with additional scratches and what seemed like toothpaste around the narrow screen frame. The artifacts in the center aren't scratches but dust amplified by zoom and lighting conditions.

5a5b566ee3d8e_screen1.thumb.jpg.9bbd0b396543ce5a95f5ec9f9db1beab.jpg

I removed some initially, using a needle and paper card edges but I couldn’t get rid of it no matter what. As a last resort measure I carefully opened up the watch, thinking I’d be able to separate the screen from the plastic frame and efficiently remove the toothpaste. Unfortunately, I figured they can’t be separated, they are one thing. While taking the main body of the watch out, two little things popped out and I couldn’t for the life of me figure where they came from. They look like this:

part_cr.thumb.jpg.4341826685fa53565e05a76c07b1392d.jpg

 

 

    They are not the ones responsible for making contact with the buttons of the watch in each side, these are intact. Fearing I would cause even more damage I closed the watch. Everything seems to work exactly as before, button response, sound, light, everything seems fine.

     

1. Anyone has any idea what are these parts and where are they supposed to be reattached? Should I even try to open the watch again and reattach them i.e is there going to be a problem with the watch If I don’t?

2. I've bought Polywatch, Casio says the screen is acrylic/plexi so hopefully it should work on removing the scratches... But first I need to remove the dried toothpaste from the plastic frame. How could I possibly do so without damaging the screen further? Seeing it doesn’t seem to go away no matter what anymore, I’m afraid it might not be toothpaste but scratched/damaged plastic from the needle and the card edges, do you think that’s the case? The stain lines are completely white and when they get wet, they seem to disappear/get darker so they are not really visible but once they get dry after 10 mins, they become visible again so hopefully it’s just remaining toothpaste? 

Please help me because as you can understand I am devastated. It’s not that the watch is too expensive but it is a Christmas gift and the fact that I am the one responsible for further damaging it, so soon, while trying to fix a very minor thing makes me feel terrible. Thanks a lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • praezis
      Greetings from India.

      By praezis · Posted

      Welcome! To which part of India will my greetings go? Frank
    • mikepilk
      Hairsrping alignment

      By mikepilk · Posted

      I agree with @Waggy, no need to adjust. That looks very good to me. The factory specs for 7S26 are something like -35 to +45s/day, but they are usually better. The amplitude is good. When wearing, the most important positions are dial up, crown down and crown left. You need to regulate so that these positions average out to about zero. Crown down is showing +14, so you may have to set dial up to slightly minus s/day. The absolute values of +/-s/day don't really matter, as long as they aren't too far out. The only way to get good accuracy is to wear it for a couple of days, recording the errors, and gradually tweaking.
    • VWatchie
      Looking for advice on removing the glass and bezel

      By VWatchie · Posted

      @Jon The link is no longer working and I wanted to see that demonstration again. Is there any chance you can make it available again? I'd appreciate it!
    • mikepilk
      DIY centre seconds support base

      By mikepilk · Posted

      Or, if you have a staking set or jewelling too, just use one of the stumps. You can choose a fine tip to fit inside a jewel if necessary.
    • Knebo
      Rolex 3130/3135 Automatic winding issue

      By Knebo · Posted

      Good morning,   To be honest, I'm not sure I trust my own logic anymore 😅. But here's a picture of my own (failed!) attempt to install a new rotor axle. I punched way to hard and even split the metal of the rotor. My thinking was that, in my case, the axle sits "deeper" in the rotor and hence the rotor would be closer to the movement plates. Vice versa, I was thinking that a very light punch could cause the rotor to sit rather high. But not sure that makes sense because in both cases, the flat part of the axle and the rotor align equally.     Sorry, but is he saying that the outside of the caseback has been polished to such an extent that the inside of the caseback has deformed/sunk??? That sounds crazy to me because those casebacks are thick! Can you see any signs of that on the inside of the caseback? Have you tried screwing in the caseback a litte bit more or less so that the supposedly "sunk" part of the caseback would move from 9 o'clock to e.g. 6/7 or 11/12 o'clock?  If the caseback is truly deformed, maybe it could be punched/pressed back into shape (e.g. with glass/caseback closing press).      I agree with your choice. But yea, Rolex makes it VERY hard for independent watchmakers to do a perfect job because we can't get (original) parts easily.      Your pictures aren't too bad. But still impossible to see if the rotor isn't perfectly flat. You'd have to look at it with your loupe, from the side (like the pictures), and turn the rotor to see if the gaps (with the automatic bridge plates) increase/decrease.     Finally... how is the up/down play of the rotor? To test, take a toothpick/pegwood and press on the small triangular side of the rotor next to the axle (NOT the big side where the weight is. But the opposite side.). Does that lift up the weight-side of the rotor? There can be some play, but it should really be minimal. If there's too much play, a new spring clip is the first thing to do. After that, one could play around with the jewels. This is too much:
×
×
  • Create New...