Jump to content

Skagen Hagen SKW 6217 BATTERY CHANGE

beearchie

By beearchie
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

beearchie Member

beearchie

Posted
Posted

I own a Skagen Hagen SKW6217 watch.
The battery just died in it.
I can't seem to figure out how to replace it. Read online about it's top load design and unit body form.
All I see is a screw at the back of the watch.
All the jewellers I have taken it to are unable to replace the battery cos they can't seem to open it. Is there anyone who can help guide me on how to open it?

IMG_20180101_233047978.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ishima Super WRT Addict

Ishima

Posted
Posted

Some models of Skagen are sneaky, i did a little bit of googling for this model but could not find it. I was considering that it might even be solar powered, i've come across two skagens that were solar powered but did not state anywhere on the outside of the watch that it was, and they both had that line on the back with the model name in the lower right hand of the line. 

Honestly if you can't find a watch specialist who's competent to do this I strongly suggest returning to manufacturer. 
http://www.skagen.com/us/en/service-information.html

However, I will say that it is very likely that the crosshead screw on the back comes off to expose 'the setting lever' which can be pressed to release the winder and from there once you have the front off it should be possible to drop it out. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ishima Super WRT Addict

Ishima

Posted
Posted

oh, i just found it actually, okay looks to be regular quartz, not solar. and the front should be removable by prying off, it's also a little less expensive than i assumed so I could understand some reluctance in going through a Skagen workshop, however, I will re emphasize this could go horribly wrong for you without the right experience and tools. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted

 

6 minutes ago, Ishima said:

oh, i just found it actually, okay looks to be regular quartz, not solar. and the front should be removable by prying off.

Correct. I did not check, seems like the bezel is removable, no pump needed. I agree with Ishima, do not try DYI that, too easy to scratch or otherwise ruin it.

skagen-hagen-black-dial-black-leather-me

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
beearchie Member

beearchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 minutes ago, Ishima said:

Some models of Skagen are sneaky, i did a little bit of googling for this model but could not find it. I was considering that it might even be solar powered, i've come across two skagens that were solar powered but did not state anywhere on the outside of the watch that it was, and they both had that line on the back with the model name in the lower right hand of the line. 

Honestly if you can't find a watch specialist who's competent to do this I strongly suggest returning to manufacturer. 
http://www.skagen.com/us/en/service-information.html

However, I will say that it is very likely that the crosshead screw on the back comes off to expose 'the setting lever' which can be pressed to release the winder and from there once you have the front off it should be possible to drop it out. 

This is enlightening!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
beearchie Member

beearchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 minutes ago, Ishima said:

oh, i just found it actually, okay looks to be regular quartz, not solar. and the front should be removable by prying off, it's also a little less expensive than i assumed so I could understand some reluctance in going through a Skagen workshop, however, I will re emphasize this could go horribly wrong for you without the right experience and tools. 

Prying off the face would need something different from the regular prying knife in watch repair sets, right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
Just now, beearchie said:

Prying off the face would need something different from the regular prying knife in watch repair sets, right?

You need a sharp blade, which is kind of dangerous. Bring it to a watch repairer, not a jeweller.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
beearchie Member

beearchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, jdm said:

You need a sharp blade, which is kind of dangerous. Bring it to a watch repairer, not a jeweller.

Had really nasty experiences with watch repairers. That's why I picked up watch repairs as a hobby and to try something new for myself. We learn everyday.

Will look for a sharp blade for it then.

But there is no bezel. Do I just pry at any point after taking out the crown?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
beearchie Member

beearchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just a day on this forum and I made huge success. I was able to open the watch (there was actually a bezel at the top but hard to see) swapped the battery (621SW).

Had a tough time closing it back since I don't have a watch press. But I padded the nose of my pliers and applied gentle force till the front snapped shut.

Watch is working great now.

Thank you @jdm and @Ishima

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
abitofwill New Member

abitofwill

Posted
Posted
On 1/4/2018 at 3:56 PM, beearchie said:

Just a day on this forum and I made huge success. I was able to open the watch (there was actually a bezel at the top but hard to see) swapped the battery (621SW).

Had a tough time closing it back since I don't have a watch press. But I padded the nose of my pliers and applied gentle force till the front snapped shut.

Watch is working great now.

Thank you @jdm and @Ishima

Hi, I have the cousin to your watch (the SKW6216). Removed the screw, took off the crown.  I've managed to pop out the glass like the video instructed, with the pump method but the bezel was in the way of the everything else. Where was this bezel at the top you found? I feel so close yet so far from replacing this damn battery. :wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
beearchie Member

beearchie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 minutes ago, abitofwill said:

Hi, I have the cousin to your watch (the SKW6216). Removed the screw, took off the crown.  I've managed to pop out the glass like the video instructed, with the pump method but the bezel was in the way of the everything else. Where was this bezel at the top you found? I feel so close yet so far from replacing this damn battery. :wacko:

Look closely at the attached photo. Hope you can see what I am referring to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
Sazzyc New Member

Sazzyc

Posted
Posted
On 1/4/2018 at 8:56 PM, beearchie said:

Just a day on this forum and I made huge success. I was able to open the watch (there was actually a bezel at the top but hard to see) swapped the battery (621SW).

Had a tough time closing it back since I don't have a watch press. But I padded the nose of my pliers and applied gentle force till the front snapped shut.

Watch is working great now.

Thank you @jdm and @Ishima

Hey! Did you need to remove the stem before taking the front off? I was struggling to get the stem out!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
17 hours ago, Sazzyc said:

Hey! Did you need to remove the stem before taking the front off? I was struggling to get the stem out!

To remove the mov't you have to remove the stem first.This is true virtually for any watch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Next is to drill the screwhole this then provides an anchor point so the bridge doesnt slip around while scribing the shape. A cork lid, a pin and a piece of gaffer tape ( 😅 ) keeps it all in place. The hole is measured from the broken part using a hand measuring gauge. Mark the hole, punch it and drill it off to size. The awkward bit is working out where the jumper should be and the detent positions.  I remember watching a youtuber a while back do this with dividers, so i dug out my old school compasses and improvised a little. This bridge only has one hole and to find the detent positions you need two points of reference, so i just worked the second point from one of the corners, hopefully its near enough. Then scribe in the jumper using the two detent positions ( wind and time set ) that were marked and a big picture of the complete spring to look at that helps to give you a feel of where the jumper should be. 
    • ManSkirtBrew
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • noirrac1j
      Watch of Today

      By noirrac1j · Posted

      As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Hawaiikook808
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By Hawaiikook808 · Posted

      Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
×
×
  • Create New...