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I enjoyed the Watch Repair Courses 1 and 2 and I've just joined the forums. Until now I have been exclusively interested in American Vintage pocket watches. I have quite a few (will later post photos with my collection), the most recent are Hamilton 992 and an Illinois Bunn Special. Both are Railroad type and are amazingly accurate.

I am currently working on making (fitting) a stem for my 16s Waltham Royal pocket watch. It's a fun project using my lathe, some filing, and making threads, and some metallurgy. Hope it will work :). That's the usual problem with vintage watches - can't find parts, so, one is almost forced to learn watchmaking to make parts that might be otherwise not available the easy way.

Being retired, I recently decided that it's time to enjoy my collect/repair hobby with modern, mechanical wrist watches. So, I got my Chinese knockoff of ETA 6467 ($42) to practice, and will soon get a 2801 to practice, and also plan to build one later for my daily use based on ETA 2924-2 (Chronometer Grade).

I love mechanical watches and am always amazed at the engineering involved in cramming  all parts into a smaller and smaller space, how they've been made to work reliably, and how beautiful they are!

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Posted (edited)

Hello and welcome centrewheel.  You are doing extremely well and making component parts is becoming more and more essential as spares are difficult to obtain. Some manufacturers will not supply anything to amateurs and employees of at least one major company have been threatened with the loss of their jobs if they take on any outside work. The watch Swiss companies need not worry though as the Chinese will not be satisfied until they get almost all of the wrist watch business. I have used one ETA 2824 clone and it was "spot on". There will be a few talented people like yourself keeping the originals working but that will be about it. Of course the way a mechanical watch works especially the balance and escapement when one gets into the finer points of it`s operation is most interesting. This interest in the watch mechanism,  history and theory is what keeps us all going in the watch direction. The very best wishes for your success in watchmaking. With kind regards, Mike. PS. many years ago I was given a watchmakers lathe with tooling and also a Vibrograf (I think it was) timer.  Paper tape those days. A friends young boy had started work with an instrument making company and was very interested in watches so I sold the lot to him for a fiver !. Later I heard that he went to Australia.

Edited by ecodec
Correction

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    • Thank you very much for this. Re: 1. I've so far found that this one needs something thicker than 2x kitchen foil (another suggestion in that thread)! 2. I've been checking where the roller needs to be in relation to the wheel, the hairspring stud/arm & the pallet fork to try to get it right first time. 3. Does one raise notches at both ends of the tube? 4. What is a "driver roller sharpener"?
    • Hmm, if it is sitting that low I am not sure I would blame end shake (which would be to blame if you turned it DU and the hairspring touched the balance cock). If it is sitting so low that the balance rubs on the pallet bridge I would verify that the balance arms are not dished downward and also that the lower balance jewel doesn't have an issue such as being chipped. Or the balance staff is actually too short, which would have caused your earlier end shake problems too. If you install the pallet bridge without the pallet fork and install the balance, is your free oscillation still good or is it immediately bound up on the pallet bridge? (I have an elgin watch like that where someone in the past ground down the pallet bridge significantly) Yes, you'll need to rotate the hairspring but deal with the pallet bridge interference first.
    • Ok. So given that I had free oscillations DU/DD for roughly the same time, I reassembled with the pallet fork and bridge underneath, and now I can see two more problems.    1. The arms of the balance are nearly flush with the pallet bridge. Bad. I can speculate as to why…the end shake still looks to be too much. Maybe other causes as well? 2. The balance doesn’t spin freely. In the resting position, it looks like the impulse jewel is outside the jaws of the pallet fork. Not by much, but still outside. If it needs be inside in the static position, then I’m guessing I’ll need to rotate my hairspring collet to change orientation by a few degrees.    The journey continues…
    • Ok, that's good to know, thank you.
    • Andy, why you betray me?   I may have good news. I'll share later! I have contacted an old watchmaker from my town, and the guy has it all. He is offline, so no parts are available to purchase, but he offered to send one for less than 10 USD, which is great. I'm now checking if he has an oscillating weight as well, to close up all that I need to put this movement to work.   Thank you all for the support. And if any good soul finds a video of the assembly process of this stem and crown, it would complete my day!  
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