Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi again....

 

Need to pick your brains on balance staff replacements.

 

So I have another one of these Pierce 103 movements to work on, this is the 3rd so far. I start to know them when I see them :-)

 

This one has a broken balance staff and I have learned the hard way that microns count in this area. The 103 was apparently fitted with several different staffs and the one coming closest to the measurements I take on the broken one is Ronda 2028.

 

BUT... there are still small differences.

 

I measure the part where the roller sits to 0,45 mm (Rn2028 - 0,44mm) There's a photo attached showing where I measure. IMG_3660.JPG

 

The part for the hairspring collet I measure to 0,52 mm (Rn2028 - 0,50 mm)

 

Will anyone with experience out there take a guess wether my roller will stay on or fall off the Rn2028 considering that the Ronda staff appears 10 micron less in diameter?

 

In a larger context I suppose my question boils down to how trustworthy these Ronda staffs are as replacements as I suppose they were a kind of 2nd source and not "orignal parts" ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Correction....

The photo is actually showing the poition along the staff that gives me the 0,44 reading i.e. Only halfways on the part where the roller sits.

Here's another picture showing the 0,44 mm position:
IMG_3658.JPG


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

I am sure you can squeeze the collet. About the roller, just try it and see how it goes. I think you can squeeze it also, but in a staking tool.

Just don't use superglue! :)

Posted

Hello matabog,

As you say, there's probably no better alternativ than trying it out.

I have used my staking set with a hollow stake to tighten a collet. Worked fine.

Not sure it's possible with the roller though...?

Superglue can be tempting sometimes but I'll do my best to stay away from that stuff :-)




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yep…This makes perfect sense. With that large a gap in the serial numbers, they were almost certainly machined on different equipment, hence one should have no expectation of any cross-batch compatibility. I’ll revert to the original bridge. Regarding bending the bridge @nevenbekriev, I’ll give it a try, but I may have to buy some better calipers. My Vernier calipers are only accurate to 0.1mm. Not very accurate. 
    • Yes, what I wanted to say is that the cock is part of the main plate, manufactured together with it and not meant to be interchangeable. Even if the other cock gets in place, it is not sure that the balance then will stay upright. You should use the original cock when it exists and is not destroyed. The adjustment needed by bending it is not irreversible. It is minimal deforming that is needed. No tools are needed. I have pointed to all needed references here for the balance staff endshake checking and correctness confirmation. The only tool needed for the correction is You thumb. The cock must be fixed on the main plate, no need of special plate with holes and so on. If You will feel more confident, then measure with Vernier caliper the height of the top of the cock where the stones are against the main plate bottom when the shim is fitted and try to reach the same height when bending the cock (with no balance in place!!!) Caliper with screw for fixing is perfect.    
    • Thanks for the reply. I polished the head of the screw using 1500 to 10000 lapping paper and a screw polisher. This is why I think the head blued and the rest of the screw didn't. Silly question, how do you polish the whole screw inc threads, if that's what it needs to blue? 100% clean, Elna red and heated ultrasonic bath + IPA rinse. Finally, there is definitely heat leak as there's about a 30c difference between the brass bed and the soldering station temp. Having said that, the bed temp was stable. I will try to search out a better brass pot, but I haven't found one yet, hence the stainless steel bowl. 
    • Agreed but that's where WD40 excels, water displacement. 
    • I would change the container to a thick walled brass one to start with. Looking at you screw pictures they don’t look shiny enough, really it’s best to do a black polish on them before trying. Also make sure once polished they are scrupulously clean, I dunk my experiments in acetone before bluing.   i think the thin walled stainless container to leach away the heat from the shavings, most successful bluing videos for example use thick walled brass to hold a good deep amount of shavings which acts as a better holder of heat.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...