Jump to content

RJK


RJK

Recommended Posts

As someone who takes the view that if it's been assembled, it can be dissembled and therefore fixed, I make occasional forays into clocks and watches and have a reasonable set of tools.  I've practised on a few Chinese movements for the skill building and entertainment, but I confess I wouldn't take any of my 'real' watches apart - off to the professional for those. I'm more likely to tackle a clock due to the scale.

Strong preference for mechanical, although - putting chronometer definition aside - possibly my most 'accurate' watch is a Bulova Accutron, which I have rated down to around half a second a day over two months.

Built an interesting rating circuit based on the usual piezo element, but not sure i'm willing to open a very good watch to do the adjusting!

I do get a string of more modest value watches for inevitable battery and/or gasket replacement, case polishing and other minor fettling and maintenance.

So, an enthusiastic amateur.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK R. Yes a man has to know his limitations. We all have to know this. You are doing OK. Watch Mark Lovick and you will learn a great deal. He is extremely knowledgeable and supplies info and courses. I am 75 now so a bit old. Yes, you can easily design a watch timer but need software for different beat timings. Hardly worth the trouble. For us amateurs I recommend a Timegrapher 1000 or 1900. The 1900 I believe supports co-axial escapements but I am not sure, never had one to try. They are cheap. 1000 £118. 1900 £147. I timed another Seamaster 300 yesterday and had to take great care with the screwdriver. (micro adj). This watch had an iso beat adjustment and this was a real help as the beat error as 2.2. After adjustment I settled for 0.02 beat error in 3 positions. The watch was of 1971 manufacture. I averaged + 8 Sec`s a day for timing. Regards, Mike. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK R. Yes a man has to know his limitations. We all have to know this. You are doing OK. Watch Mark Lovick and you will learn a great deal. He is extremely knowledgeable and supplies info and courses. I am 75 now so a bit old. Yes, you can easily design a watch timer but need software for different beat timings. Hardly worth the trouble. For us amateurs I recommend a Timegrapher 1000 or 1900. The 1900 I believe supports co-axial escapements but I am not sure, never had one to try. They are cheap. 1000 £118. 1900 £147. I timed another Seamaster 300 yesterday and had to take great care with the screwdriver. (micro adj). This watch had an iso beat adjustment and this was a real help as the beat error as 2.2. After adjustment I settled for 0.02 beat error in 3 positions. The watch was of 1971 manufacture. I averaged + 8 Sec`s a day for timing. Regards, Mike. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi RJK, Your Bulova Accutron was the best tuning fork watch.  I had an Omega F300 (not as good as the Bulova)  I smashed it many years ago when a car pulled out and knocked me of my motorcycle. I escaped with hardly a scratch. Watch and bike were wrecked !!. Speak later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
    • Yes I understand that. What I’m asking is, after the hands have been fitted, it’s been checked that the hands do not touch etc. then I need to remove the stem to fit the movement in the case. I have the push type, I need to turn it upside down and push the setting lever post and pull the stem out. But of course the dial and hands are in place and I have a glossy dial with lume dots and I do not want to cause any damage while it’s upside down pushing on the post of the setting lever.
    • You have answered your own question. You just push the setting lever nipple in or if its the screw in type unscrew it a little. You should always remove any hands and the dial before putting it in your movement holder. 
    • Did the old battery leak and damaged the circuit board? Can you post some photos of where the buttons make contact on the circuit board.  Try cleaning the gold fingers on the board with alcohol and also the conductive rubber strips behind the LCD display panel.
×
×
  • Create New...