Jump to content

French Mantle (Slate) Clock Movement


Folkvisor

Recommended Posts

The clock works but only when it wants to. I think it is just very dirty and in need of a good oiling.

There are a lot of flat brass screws that are proving very difficult to remove. Also the pins are really stuck in there and it is very difficult to pull them out. I don't want to damage the brass screws or the clock while repairing it. 

Is it possible to put the whole clock in a bath of naphtha to clean it; it may solve the stickiness? Or is that a really bad idea and I should simply proceed slowly getting it dismantled?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Folkvisor said:

The clock works but only when it wants to. I think it is just very dirty and in need of a good oiling.

There are a lot of flat brass screws that are proving very difficult to remove. Also the pins are really stuck in there and it is very difficult to pull them out. I don't want to damage the brass screws or the clock while repairing it. 

Is it possible to put the whole clock in a bath of naphtha to clean it; it may solve the stickiness? Or is that a really bad idea and I should simply proceed slowly getting it dismantled?

There should not be any brass screws they should all be steel. Try removing the pins with a pair of watchmaker’s pliers or you could use a punch and small hammer and knock them out. If the pins are rusted in, put oil around them and ease them out.

Never ever, put the whole movement in any liquid. The movement should be taken apart.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, good to know about not immersing the movement in liquid!

I put some penetrating oil around the pins. I'll just leave it over night. There's no rush; this clock hasn't been working for decades...

Perhaps the screws are just plated. In any case they are tight and I've used some penetrating oil on them as well.

Always an adventure...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have never come across any French movements that have the screws plated, they are all steel right down to the smallest one that hold the   Are you sure its French and not an imitation, there are American and German but the pinions tend to be lantern and not solid. Any chance of some photos?

 

I keep remembering little things. Many movements with strike have tiny punch marks on the wheels this is to help in lining the wheels up in re-assembly so as to have them in the right order for the warning in the strike. Don’t worry if you cant get this right, as long as you have the wheel next to the fly wheel some way back. You can always remove the wheel with all the pins and place it back or forward. The three small plates, that hold the centre wheel the wheel between the centre and escape wheel plus the strike wheel with all the pins on those three screws tend to have punch marks the same as the three plates this is to help you so as you don’t mix them up. If you do mix them up sometimes the plates when screwed tight do not mesh with the main plate, but the pins in the small plates would be out of line so it is highly unlikely this could happen. Always put the barrel caps back on in the same place as when you take them off.  

Here is a 8 day French count wheel strike nicely polished but alas no work in blueing the screws, and poor pinning.

Screenshot-2017-11-5 French Clock Movement 2.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The brass screws may be plated. They are on the arms fastening the clock into the case so have nothing to do with the clock itself.

The pins are going to be a problem. I'll just keep at it.

I will take photos and send you some Monday; I have a 6 hour rehearsal today for a musical.

Edited by Folkvisor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't open the file. When you add a comment at the bottom of the box to the left it says Drag files here to attach, or choose file, click on choose file a window will open and you look for the file. The simple way is keep your file on the desk top that you want to upload, when the window opens look to the left you will have a list, click desktop and look for the file, when you have found it double click and it will upload. Close your window and look at the bottom left and it will tell you when the file has uploaded, you will see the photo, then just do what you normally do when making a post or reply.

Edited by oldhippy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, Folkvisor said:

Maybe it's my iMac or the fact they are on Pages. I'll try turning them into a PDF and see what happens.

French Clock Photos.pages

Have opened your pic. However for those without a Mac will not be able to open. Save the pic as a JPEG then choose files then double click on the selected pic then when loaded  click the + which will enter it into the post.

PS the pic is not showing a lot of detail. A pic of the front & rear plates will be better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This movement should be able to put its self in beat, providing the crutch and pallets have not been butcher.  The crutch should be friction tight to the pallets and are screwed on by means of a thread, you can tighten them if needs be because the collet is split, sometimes you might find some fool has soldered them, the same goes with the pallets, I don’t know why but I have found blobs of solder around the pallets. It has what is called rack striking and strikes on a bell. I cannot see the makers name or date. I can see the little punch marks on the screws and small plates, which I already mentioned. Take out the suspension spring and see if its twisted if so replace it. Looking at it in the movement it looks fine but looks can be deceiving. The movement doesn’t look that dirty I have seen a lot worse, so look for wear and check the springs. You will need a clock mainspring winder to remove both springs in the correct manner.    

 

About the regulator.

Most French clocks have a system for fine adjustment of the rate, which takes the form of a small square, which protrudes through the top of the dial, directly above 12 o'clock. The square is at the end of a rod, which at its other end is attached to a suspension block on the back plate of the movement. The suspension spring is fixed to the top of this block. Under the fixing point, the spring is held between two cheeks of a threaded block. Turning the square on the front of the dial raises or lowers the cheeks, altering the acting length of the suspension spring therefore altering the rate of the clock. Turning the key to the right will make the clock gain and turning to the left will make the clock lose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, I agree that isn't all that dirty. The suspension spring is twisted. Can it be straightened? I'm not sure where I can buy another one.

The clock runs so the pallets etc isn't a huge problem; however, the clock needs to be tilted slightly toward 1 o'clock to work. If 12 is at the top it doesn't want to run.

Also, I don't thing it was pinned properly. They aren't tapered and they look suspiciously like decapitated tacks. I've used penetrating oil to get them out because I think they should be replaced with tapered pins but it's not going to be easy.

The striking mechanism works though.

Thank you for your detailed descriptions and help; if you ever need to know how to do a complete regulation on a Steinway Grand...just call a very experienced piano technician...they are even harder than French Slate Clocks...LOL

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Suspension springs should be easy to obtain. This type is very common.

How you have described your clock about it ticking, it is not in beat. What I have described before about the friction type pallets you should just give the pendulum a good swing and the clock should set its self in beat. Never bother to try to straighten the suspension spring; this will cause the pendulum to wobble during its action. Its action should be in a straight line, not something that goes all over the place; it can also cause poor timekeeping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
    • There are some parts on Ebay for the seiko 6020A, it may just be a waiting game for someone to strip one down, NOS will be more scarce . K would strip your movement down to the module then start looking at other seiko movement to see if that coil is used, then seek out a seiko part dealer. Also Retrowatches youtube owner Mike may give you some advice try him on his site . He also hangs around amateur watchmaking groups.
    • I would agree, in order to work harden something you need to exceed it's yield strength when it moves from the elastic zone to the plastic zone and you get permanent deformation and work hardening which is fairly close to its failure point, relatively speaking and dependent on the material/alloy of course. In theory you can load something constantly within its elastic range and not suffer work hardening issues.
    • Probably easier to get a complete new movement - but CousinsUK list it as discontinued. Maybe someone on here knows a substitute movement ?
×
×
  • Create New...