Jump to content

Smith - From Cheltenham To Essex


Recommended Posts

Some time ago, I read an interesting post on Robert Loomes "Made In England" watches. I was idly looking at a Loomes catalogue on the net recently, aware that his movements are basically NOS Smiths movements. His watches cost between £7,000 and £16,000 depending on this and that - mainly whether they're rose-gold or not - whereas a Smiths watch today can cost a fraction of that. Just for fun, I took a screenshot of the movement from his "Robin" range and popped it next to a photo of my grandad's BR presentation watch ("De Luxe" movement) from 1965. So - Smith's owners everywhere - should we get out our engraving tools and get scribing... smile.png

 

Smith-Loomes.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spooky! I was just looking at that Robert Loomes movement yesterday, there is very little difference between yours and it.

 

Apart from the engraving and the touching up of the different parts - no difference whatsoever. That's because Loomes discovered a hoard of NOS Smiths movements in Holland or somewhere like that, bought them to England and proceeded to found his "Made In England" business on the back of tarting them up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's interesting, isn't it? Note how the original movement engraving - number of jewels, Made in England, serial number - has all been polished away to be replaced by Loomes's own signature and his version of "Made In England". The movement has also been decreased in diameter - take a look at the space between the bridge screws and the edge. I wonder if he's increased the number of jewels as part of the mod - doubt it - and it looks as though the balance wheel is the plain, unweighted version as well.

Edited by WillFly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

it looks as though the balance wheel is the plain, unweighted version as well.[/size]

I think the balance does have screws. The movement appears to be running and the screws are a blur just outside the diameter of the wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes - as you say - a blurred balance. In any case, in spite of my slight cynicism, I can't see them using a plain old "Empire"-type movement in a watch of this price!

 

Incidentally, did I read somewhere that one of the Jaeger-Le-Coultre watchmakers - someone called Lenoir -  acted as a consultant or director of Smiths when they were refining their movements upwards? The double screws on the balance cock remind me of a J L-C.

Edited by WillFly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I worked on these for Robert in Stamford for a while.

It was mind numbing, but all the folks at Robert Loomes are fantastic. In particular, Craig is an exceptional watchmaker and I can say that a huge amount of man hours went into the build of the Robin. I know Don knows what I am talking about.

:)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should it not have been the Loomes Lovick then!

I like that - rolls off the tongue.

 

"Ooh - nice watch - what is it?"

"Oh, it's a Loomes-Lovick."

"Very sweet!"

Edited by WillFly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Is the crystal gasket a hard gasket ? The overall size you are aiming for H is 36.9, so whatever combo size of glass and gasket  closest to this, one above and one below. What type of gasket is involved ?
    • I don't understand why did You use the bubble wrap. If You think there is any use to hold the thing exactly in the middle of the hole - wrong, there is no matter, just pass it tru the hole and take it away to at least 40 cm before release of the button. If You reduce the current, then You reduce the field strenght too, thus not alowing the tool to be demagnetised if it is holding stronger field than the coil can create. My advice is to eat You breakfast (for more muscle strenght) and to fix the demagnetiser to the table or bench top with some clamp so You will be able to use the both hands, then ask You wife to press the button for You...
    • In WW2 they used to demag submarines. 
    • You know when you pass pieces through the hole, how far do you continue to move them away from the demag ?   With the blue china ones if i don't move the steel far enough away it doesn't fully demag it , i also carry out the process twice. For a tenner its working perfectly for me up to now. Thats a big jobby Jon, even though the blue effort is working fine for me this will look well cool sat in the corner of the watchroom and might pull a few lost parts from their hidding places as a bonus . Flick the switch with a bargepole from the doorway to avoid a zinging barrel arbor taking an eyeball out.
    • Yup, I have one of those up in my shed and it's extremely effective. I picked mine up at a car boot sale for a couple of quid because nobody knew what it was. Mine looks like it came out of the Ark so I guess that they've been around for a long time. Generally for watch stuff I use an equally ancient pass through type which is usually sufficient but for really stubborn items, particularly tools I use the Eclipse.
×
×
  • Create New...