Jump to content

ETA 955 missing parts ? See photos


Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I have a funny feeling I know the answer to this, but need confirmation from some experts before I progress much further.

Back story: I recently took a chance on an unusual quartz divers watch on ebay that 'needed a new battery'. Upon fitting a new battery, the watch was still not working. So I decided to do a bit of investigating as a keen viewer of Mark's Youtube tutorials, I thought I could find out what is really wrong with this watch.

It has an ETA 955 movement, but it seems unusual in that it has both Day and Date. And from what I read, the 955 is a relatively robust and well regarded movement. But looking at online photos, and comparing it to my watch, I think I may have spotted the reason. The bottom of the battery compartment is open. No isolator and no arm to the negative. I initially assumed that the bottom was the contact to negative, but all other photos of this movement I can find show the isolator and contact arm.

So some questions please.

1: Is there actually two parts missing, or is what I have actually OK?

2: Is it repairable? Is the pad and contact something that can be placed in from above, or is it (the movement) likely to be damaged and need replacement?

3: If it needs replacement, are the Day and Date rings going to cause me grief, or are all 955 movements compatible with what I have and it's just a case of swapping over the electrical side?

Your help and assistance (and perhaps encouragement) would be greatly appreciated if I do need to do some work on it.

The watch in question is the centre one, with black PVD body.

Steve

WP_20170315_19_34_34_Pro.thumb.jpg.8b81a5f34d1dfa2b72387f974c2dd596.jpg

DSCN0252.thumb.JPG.849aa1eb76fba3082d4e9e89620e48a6.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The negative connection on the circuit has been snapped off and the isolator is missing.

Easy fix, undo the screws holding circuit board on, replace circuit board and fit a new isolator under connection on new circuit board.

presuming everything else is ok with movement you won't have to remove anything else and can even be done whilst still in its case.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not my finest repair, but from the posts above and some time looking at photos online, it was confirmed I was missing the isolator pad and negative contact. I decided to give it a try. For my insulator I used a clear disc of plastic that was part of my watch battery blister pack, cut into the neatest circle I could manage. The contact was a few strands of copper wire coated with solder, one end turned up slightly. Up turned end placed against the contact pad and a two second touch with the soldering iron. Not neat, but it works. Watch now on my wrist. I imagine it will break off at some point, so I will be getting a replacement movement or circuit, but no rush for it now. I'll have a little time wearing the watch before it comes apart again.

 

DSCN0255.thumb.JPG.a3bcc28ed8cd37f31e4107901b70308c.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Next is to drill the screwhole this then provides an anchor point so the bridge doesnt slip around while scribing the shape. A cork lid, a pin and a piece of gaffer tape ( 😅 ) keeps it all in place. The hole is measured from the broken part using a hand measuring gauge. Mark the hole, punch it and drill it off to size. The awkward bit is working out where the jumper should be and the detent positions.  I remember watching a youtuber a while back do this with dividers, so i dug out my old school compasses and improvised a little. This bridge only has one hole and to find the detent positions you need two points of reference, so i just worked the second point from one of the corners, hopefully its near enough. Then scribe in the jumper using the two detent positions ( wind and time set ) that were marked and a big picture of the complete spring to look at that helps to give you a feel of where the jumper should be. 
    • Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
×
×
  • Create New...