Jump to content

broken regulator pin


thessler

Recommended Posts

Hi

I'm in the part of the learning curve where just about every watch I touch ends up broken. So far this is not such an enjoyable hobby.

Upon stripping and cleaning and old Gerrard Perreaugx  I bent the regulator pin and of course when I tried to straighten it it snapped.

Instead of just creating another parts watch I thought I would give it a go, pretty sure it will end up in the scrap pile.

I found an assortment of hairspring  collet pins on e bay I'm hoping to adapt one, they have many tapperd  pins for clocks that would be my second choice but I have no way to turn them down.

If I'm able to get one of these to work any suggestions on how to hold it while peen the top over ? I see that as quite a challenge without bending the new pin.

As a side note, to clean the top balance jewel the hairspring needs to come off and un screw the regulator from the bottom. This is how I got in trouble. Do you guys go through all that work just for that one jewel cap routinely or just skip that one ?

Thanks for any advice Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, thessler said:

Do you guys go through all that work just for that one jewel cap routinely or just skip that one ?

Every time.

In many respects the balance jewels are the most critical in the whole movement as inconsistencies in the behaviour of the balance is what screws up the time keeping, and a less than perfectly clean and properly oiled pivot and cap jewel will introduce inconsistencies in the performance of the balance.

It is certainly a fiddly operation but it comes a lot easier with practice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fitting a new regulator pin without a staking set is difficult... but not impossible.

You can also buy a selection of pins to make the job of modifying to fit slightly easier. They are hard to find, but search Cousins for S37393.

You will need a small flat steel plate (such as a thick washer) with 2 holes in it - it must be thicker than the length of the regulator boot. One hole is for the regulator boot to go through and you will need a tiny one close to it for the new pin. Drill the hole for the new pin first then file the other hole until they are close enough together.

The objective is to support all of the area of the larger section of the pin so that you can tap the other end with a small hammer. No need to whack it! You don't want to distort the regulator lever and it requires very little to keep it in place.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys

Stuart I actually have a staking set, really didn't think of that.

Not really sure how it would help can't picture the setup.  I am thinking put the pin in a stump with a tiny hole but I'm sure there would be no room to clear the boot. If you of someone else can expand on the staking set idea, I'm all ears.

Thank you, Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may find that the roller punch (with the slot down the side) will suit.

If not then you may need to modify a hollow flat punch by grinding away one side to clear the boot. Choose the smallest hole that will fit the curb pin. You can buy individual replacement bergeon punches for 4.7mm sets quite cheaply.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All I do is use a fine marker (sharpie) to put the service date on the back cover, this way it can be removed with some IPA and does no permanent damage to the watch. I'm in two minds about the whole service marking thing, sometimes it's good/bad to see the markings on the watch case back as you know it's been worked on and vice versa. However, if I took my car in for a service and the mechanic scratched some code into the housing of my engine I wouldn't be too impressed. Hence, I think my sharpie solution is a reasonable compromise.
    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
×
×
  • Create New...