Jump to content

Solution For Rusted Movements

Lawson

By Lawson
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Lawson Super WRT Addict

Lawson

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

 

I thought I'd put this up to help those with nasty rusted movements.

 

The product is called Evapo-Rust, and it's a soak for rusted parts that removes rust without ANY scrubbing, and will not affect paint, plating and safe for all metals.

 

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

 

Removes even heavy rust completely
Non-toxic, non-corrosive, safe on skin
No fumes or bad odors, non-flammable, no VOC's
Biodegradable, water soluble
Requires no special equipment
***Will not harm unrusted steel, safe on other metals***
Will not affect plastic, PVC, Viton and most paints

 

I found this product through a vintage Radio/TV Restoration Channel on YouTube.

Here's his review on this product ... he was extremely impressed by it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_C2OimE2YM

 

I hope this is useful and makes those water damage repairs a little easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

Posted
Posted

Hi Lawson, have you tried it in watches yet. I'm curious about the result. I got a watch with very rusted parts I opted to replace the movement completely (just yesterday!) The "customer" was very happy but she didn't know how much trouble I went through (that fiberglass from the rust brushes can give you an itch and then, the involved tweezers work on the fingers!). I wish I had known about this product.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Lawson Super WRT Addict

Lawson

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hi Bob,

 

No I haven't yet, not on watch parts; but metal and brass is metal and brass.  Before you are consider replacing the movement, I'd test first with some of the cheaper parts that you'd intended to throw in the bin anyway.

It's like US$22 for a gallon so it's not going to be an expensive test.

I have seen this used on some very old and rare and delicate radio parts which are impossible to replace, and they came out completely rust free, didn't remove the 60yr/old printing on the metal, and didn't remove the cadmium plating ... I was VERY impressed.

 

ps... I hear you about the fibreglass pens, I've used those before and had glass in my fingers for days!!

Edited by Lawson
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

I have been doing a little research on this product and it seems to be excellent.

I did find this warning from another forum:-

"I found that on some paints that the Oxalic Acid can change the shade of colour, thought the paint remains unharmed. The paint involved was as below a light khaki spray paint.

That even though it is said that Evaporust with not harm paint, this is not completely true for some paints. I had it soften the paint and make it go all wrinkly. It also removed gun blueing and shellac. The paint involved was a light khaki spray painting on a tin."

My fear is that the shellac removing quality may cause big problems if you're not careful!

I'm still going to buy some as I have lots of projects where paint and shellac are not present.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Lawson Super WRT Addict

Lawson

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yes, they disclose on their Australian site that paints created with oxides may be affected.

"Will not effect plastic, PVC, Viton and non-oxide based paints"

Here's the link:

http://www.evapo-rust.com.au/

 

They also explain how it works on the Australian site too:

http://www.evapo-rust.com.au/How%20It%20Works.html

 

I definitely wouldn't soak a dial plate in it without being absolutely sure it's paint is enamel based; and even then it would be a risk.  I posted this information for rust removal for movement parts only.

If the pallet is rusted, wouldn't you remove the stones before attempting to removing rust?  So perhaps the shellac removal is a bit of a bonus to get the forks nice and clean too before re-fitting the stones.

Edited by Lawson
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
    • HectorLooi
      Battery

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • PeterS
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By PeterS · Posted

      Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • Murks
      Battery

      By Murks · Posted

      A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
×
×
  • Create New...