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About kmcderm133

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  1. "After Thanksgiving" took longer than I thought. I have my before pictures. Looking at the parts again there isn't as much rust as I remember really, at least not on the steel parts. The lock washer is particularly well rusted though, and I'm afraid of what could happen if removing the rust either by hand or by soaking goes wrong. The brass parts seem to have fared worse. There is some rust on the "possibly nickel plated" bridge pieces but I think this is from the winding wheel and the ratchet wheel. I apologize for the picture quality, I'm working with a macro attachment to my zoom lens and a flashlight held in my other hand for higher shutter speeds. Not the best of setups. Two things I forgot to add earlier, sorry: That "59030" on that one plate, could that be the real serial number? I haven't seen any more of these watches disassembled to know. The other I think I know the answer to, but here goes anyway: Any chance that balance staff isn't broken but just "shaped like that"? I realize probably not, but it seldom hurts to ask.
  2. OK, now I'm trying to upload but getting the error message "There was a problem processing the uploaded file. -200". Pictures range from 6 to 10 MB in size, I'll try to reduce them and see if that helps.
  3. It's a good thing I didn't leave the camera set on it's best resolution. There are 45 pictures in the directory, I'll try and pare it down some...
  4. I need to post more than a few pictures to a thread and I'd like to know the preferred method for that here. Should I use a picture hosting site, or can I upload directly to this website? Is there a limit to file size per picture or per post? Thanks, Kevin
  5. I think for now I'm going to wait until after a family event this weekend and then try one piece in vinegar and try the alcohol on another made from a similar metal. I'll take before and after photos.
  6. Wow. Ok, you win. Did you get your money back for the watch?
  7. I might try the alcohol on at least one piece, see what happens. In fact I have some 99% isopropyl alcohol that I use for cleaning electronics. There's a minimum of water in it and I have an old toothbrush dedicated to that use. The military repair manual has a couple of alphanumerics on the front page, the more prominent being "TM 9-1575" and the second being "TO 05-35A--22". I'm pretty sure it's in the public domain both from being a non-classified military handbook (about watch repair, no less) and being published in 1945. I don't remember where I downloaded it from, is there a place on this website where I can upload it? I might select a piece and try the vinegar on it. I have reservations about that though: I've used vinegar to etch a sword blade, and part of what this did was remove the edge as it was removing metal. With precision watch parts I'm a bit worried that they'll be eroded to a point where they don't fit anymore. Is there a chance that could happen here?
  8. To a point I'm with Tmuir on this one. I had a laptop keyboard (THIS laptop keyboard!) shipped to me sandwiched between two pieces of cardboard and wrapped in brown paper. It's still not flat. Some bubble wrap would have been nice, but, yeah, they overdid it a little with your purchase a little there. But hey, free box for mailing things!
  9. So, while waiting to fix the Seiko misadventures of my youth, I went looking for broken pocket watch movements on ebay. (I had read somewhere that a good way to start is clocks for their larger parts, then pocket watches as an intermediate stage and then wristwatches for the smallest movements and parts.) After losing several auctions for promising non-working pocket watches I found a New York Standard possibly "Model 11". It was mostly disassembled and there is much rust/corrosion. I think it's missing at least the clutch, for example. It needs new hands, but this isn't impossible. The main problem here is the rust. It looks like someone disassembled this watch on purpose but I don't know how it came to be so rusted. (Maybe it was parted out? It would be nice to have a tech book on this watch.) So I've been looking over rust removal methods. One video says to use water and baking soda with a brush. Many advocate the use of a "solvent" without being very specific. I have a .pdf of a 1940's War Dept. Technical Manual for watch repair. (you know, for when you're in a trench and taking fire and need to know what time it is but your watch is broken) Among other things this book recommends using pith and I think maybe pegwood as well as solvents or the like that are only referred to by what I think are military requisition numbers. My circumstances are such that I can't afford a sonic jewelry cleaner, and I don't have a dedicated work area and limited storage for tools. The baking soda method appeals to me but I think this works mostly by abrasion, the baking soda being gritty. I'm afraid this could damage smaller parts. I could upload pictures if anyone's interested.
  10. Ah. I'm searching all three words in the same search. I tried it again just now and noticed a dropdown menu with an option to "search for all terms" and this has... tidied up the results a bit. Now there are three results. One of which is this thread.
  11. I'm trying to use the forum search unction to search for the words 'antique', 'pocket' and 'rust'. The website suggest I use boolean search AND function but this only results in the word "AND" being searched for as well. I feel like I'm missing something obvious. Am I? (BTW- that search turned up almost 46,000 results, so there's a lot that probably doesn't pertain to what I'm looking for )
  12. So, an update: The Seiko movement auction ended fifty cents over my maximum bid. I've ordered the escape wheel from Cousins UK. It'll get here when it gets here I suppose, but I'm fairly confident in my ability to install it. After that it's going to a watchmaker for cleaning and oiling. I think I've given myself a complex over this particular watch.
  13. Today I received a watch box I had ordered, so I'm well on my way to not misplacing it any longer. Dad had it in his top drawer forever though with other miscellaneous things and either because of this or actual wear as a watch the crystal and case are a bit scratched. That's not to mention the scratches I added trying to turn the back with a pair of needle nose pliers. I'll never try that again, but I have a watch back tool for that anyway, and a $20 skeleton watch from Amazon to practice on. The working movement on ebay is more attainable for me, and is advertised as "working" so the escape wheel should be present and intact, but "working" may be a euphemism, the watch face and day wheel aren't attached but included int he auction. I'm hopeful!
  14. Thanks! After shipping it's a little outside my budget for the month, maybe in a few days. In the meantime I did find a "parts" 5106a movement on ebay, but that ends in a few days. I think the search engine wouldn't have turned it up if I hadn't posted here first.
  15. OK, this is completely my fault. But the watch would have needed servicing anyway. Some years ago I asked my father if I could have his old watch to take apart. He valued function over form, I think, and didn't see the value in a mechanical watch when his newer one could sync with his computer over USB and hold his calendar and such. So like so many other things, I took the Seiko apart. In my defense I'm pretty sure I put the rest of it back together correctly, it's just that the escapement wheel fell off my bed and onto the rug, where it disappeared. The watch is otherwise complete, it could use a new crystal but I won't complain if I can just get it running again. It's a Seiko Presmatic 33j, 5106-9000 and the winder on the movement reads 5106A. That's as close as I can get to a model number for the movement. I've called several of the watch parts suppliers listed in the Resources section but they either don't have what I need or they don't sell to private individuals. (Jewellers and other businesses only.) So where can I locate a compatible escapement wheel for this watch? I'm not picky if Seiko made an identical part for a different watch, and I don't mind buying a broken movement as long as the escape wheel is intact. I just can't find any. I'm new to this, any help is appreciated.
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