Jump to content

Hello from me and a Silvana Sea Star


Recommended Posts

Hello everyone.

I have a new obsession. Started with repacing the battery on my Christian Bernard quartz dress watch. Then, thinking that was fun, went for a capacitor replacement on my old Seiko Kinetic (5M43) which worked fine. Bought a few tools from Cousins, lurked on this forum, watched quite a few of Mark's videos and now I'm thinking this is a great obsession.

So I have a Silvana Sea Star from my father-in-law which works but has a broken seconds hand and a cracked glass. The watch has an ETA 2472 which looks very clean. I'd like to replace the broken seconds hand, have a clean of the outer case and replace the gasket. Ultimately I'd like to attempt a complete service - but feel the need to undergo a bit further practice and learning before I do that.

I'm struggling to find any information on the Silvana Sea Star and feel completely lost trying to select a seconds hand on the Cousins spare parts section; or the gasket & glass with no information. I'd like to replace the glass too but can't afford to buy an expensive press and I'm not aware of another method to remove and replace the glass.

Anyway, there's a picture of the Silvana attached. Any help or pointers to give me a head start or advice about taking some first steps.

Mark22

 

silvana_seastar.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Greetings and Salutations!

For hands, info from this site might help some, it lists the hole sizes in the hands for the ETA 2472 movement.

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&1ranfft&b&2uswk&ETA_2472

Then it's a matter of length and style, perhaps you can find a picture online that shows the original seconds hand.

A press need not be expensive, especially if that's an acrylic crystal. You will need something to measure with, such as a set of calipers, to get the dimensions of the existing crystal and gasket so you can order proper replacements.

Cheers, and good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
×
×
  • Create New...