Jump to content

How to open an old Elgin pocket watch?

mcass
 Share

Recommended Posts

vinn3 Distinguished Member

vinn3

Posted
Posted

wow,  nice chart, i copied for referance.  with some minor math  you should be able to select the amount of dome on a hunting case acquired with no crystal.!  measuring  the opening in the bezile accurately is the next step.  good luck.  vinn

  • Like 1
vinn3 Distinguished Member

vinn3

Posted
Posted

the  hunting case bezels are usually "light duty"  espesually if they have a knotched for a "lever set".  a watchmaker's  shope that  guantees their work is the place to go.  vinn

mcass WRT Addict

mcass

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well it's been awhile since I worked on this one. I thought I was nearly done, having finally found a crystal. Thanks to whomever mentioned Dave's by the way!

Anyway, I pulled it out tonight to measure for the crystal and I noticed that will the balance wheel was beating and the second hand moving, the hour and minute hands aren't. It appears the other wheels are engaging and moving but for some reason the hour and minute hands aren't moving. Back to the drawing board this weekend! Any suggestions?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 9 months later...
mcass WRT Addict

mcass

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK I know it has been awhile but I have an update with a question. I have received another crystal that I am going to try and fit today. I pulled the watch out the other day to remeasure, gave it a wind, and the second-hand get running right away. However, I noticed two things one which seems very unusual. When winding the watch, the minute and second hands turn. That seems strange. When pulling the lever to set the hands, that seems to work properly except once I have it set and push the lever back in, the second-hand ticks but the hour and minute hands do not move. Hope this makes sense. I was really hoping to have this one finished today finally but it looks like I am having bigger issues which are going to require a strip down again. Any advice would be appreciated.

  • 3 months later...
mcass WRT Addict

mcass

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I know this is a very old thread but I'm going to finally attempt to finish this this weekend. I believe I have found a crystal but before putting it in I'm having some issues. While the second hand is moving and appears to be operating as it should, the minute hand is not moving. Also, with the lever pushed in, the crown will still turn the hands while winding. What could be causing these issues???

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

It sounds like a cannon pinion issue.  Has it been snapped back in place properly?  If it has, it could be needing tightened.  

  • Like 1
mcass WRT Addict

mcass

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It sounds like a cannon pinion issue.  Has it been snapped back in place properly?  If it has, it could be needing tightened.  
I'll take a look. Was hoping to have an idea before I broke her down again. Thanks Geo that gives me some direction. I'll let you know what I find.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
mcass WRT Addict

mcass

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It sounds like a cannon pinion issue.  Has it been snapped back in place properly?  If it has, it could be needing tightened.  
Geo everything appears fine unless I misunderstand the function. The center wheel turns the Canon correct? Is it possible this is not happening because it fits too loose? Does there need to be a crimp or anything to hold it?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

The cannon pinion should be slightly tight on the centre pinion to allow slippage when setting the hands, but tight enough to allow the hands to be driven by the pinion.

Have a read of this thread it may help you.  

 

mcass WRT Addict

mcass

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It sounds like a cannon pinion issue.  Has it been snapped back in place properly?  If it has, it could be needing tightened.  
Geo I actually found the problem. The lever that pulls out to set the watch actually had a loose screw and so it wasn't actuation the way it should. Tightened it down and now she is working ok.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • docrpm
      Elgin Grade 315: Runs/stops with dial down/up

      By docrpm · Posted

      Ok. So given that I had free oscillations DU/DD for roughly the same time, I reassembled with the pallet fork and bridge underneath, and now I can see two more problems.    1. The arms of the balance are nearly flush with the pallet bridge. Bad. I can speculate as to why…the end shake still looks to be too much. Maybe other causes as well? 2. The balance doesn’t spin freely. In the resting position, it looks like the impulse jewel is outside the jaws of the pallet fork. Not by much, but still outside. If it needs be inside in the static position, then I’m guessing I’ll need to rotate my hairspring collet to change orientation by a few degrees.    The journey continues…
    • stm
      Doxa women's watch (radioactive)

      By stm · Posted

      Ok, that's good to know, thank you.
    • Michalzeszen
      ETA 2472 - how to tackle this crown and stem?

      By Michalzeszen · Posted

      Andy, why you betray me?   I may have good news. I'll share later!
    • Stefango
      Somewhat as reward

      By Stefango · Posted

      Hi. I have been touching watches for quite some years, but haven’t before pretty recently decided to jump of the cliff by trying to do basic service for the first time. It is a simple Seiko 6602 I bought as a renovation movement.  To be honest I struggled. Mainly because I wanted to do everything correctly and with all the right tools etc from the start.  From just having basic tools I invested in quite a lot of things in order to dissemble, clean and lubricate the movement parts. I can say it was a journey.  Taking care of the balance jewels looks really easy watching all the great videos, but god damn… I have been lucky and only shot away things that was found but come on. Anyway. I have now managed to “service” four movements and the result is what makes me want to keep doing this.    The first movement was a Seiko 6602 and it was in a pretty bad shape. When I run it on the Timegraoher now I got an amplitude of 270 and in all positions it stays around +-2s.    I have heard some “amateurs” saying this is a hobby you’ll get stuck to and I am already there. It doesn’t matter if it’s a fancy movement or a simple 6602. The feeling after been struggling and you see the result… it’s amazing! I am still in a state where I am confused and don’t know which watch press tool is best, or if I need the most fancy hand tools etc, but to be honest. This is so stimulating.    Sorry for not really adding anything new to you all pros. 
    • AndyGSi
      casio md-522

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      Casio normally put the movement number of the case back. Edit So it's a 709 Module (as Casio call then) you're looking for.
×
×
  • Create New...