Jump to content

Seiko 7009


Recommended Posts

Well, not knowing how to let down tension on the mainspring before I disassembled the movement produced a bit of an explosion.

But, the good news is that I didn't lose any parts and I now hope that the mainspring isn't broken - since it wasn't before, and I know the correct way of letting it unwind. I also know it delivers power up to the pallet lever so I'm thinking there is a problem with the balance.

Anyway, I'll clean it and see what happens. 

Dave

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll bet that was an exciting few seconds. I'm working on a 7019 right now, very similar to your 7009. The main differences are in the calendar side and a few extra jewels. I'm taking a break from it this evening because I have to make a mainspring winder. I have a nice one that I made for the Seiko 6xxx series, but the 7xxx barrel is a bit smaller so it won't work. They also wind in different directions relative to the barrel opening so I need to make an intermediate ring to press the spring into, then from there into the barrel.

If you haven't already, I suggest you watch Mark's recent video on servicing the 7s26. It's very informative as usual, and most of it will apply to the 7009. I think he's posting part 2 on Friday.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, I saw Mark's video right after I had exciting few seconds. It's very good and it would have helped a lot; however, I should know by now that just because a watch doesn't work doesn't mean it's now wound.

Interesting that you make your own winders.

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
    • Looks lint the teeth on the hour wheel aren't meshing with the teeth on the calendar intermediate wheel, maybe the hour wheel is sitting on top of this instead of meshing?        
×
×
  • Create New...