Jump to content

Watch Quality And Values?


Recommended Posts

On 2/27/2016 at 9:04 AM, stroppy said:

Very nice!  What's the number/type of the movement?

I know this post is a little late Stroppy but I did find out a little more about this watch via a forum on Facebook. Someone indicated the following:

" These Zaria 3105s were made for a very brief period c. 2010-2011. I bought one new for about $65, then Maktime discontinued the movement and the prices skyrocketed. Wish I had bought more. "

" Zaria became part of the Maktime watch group in the 2000s, so they shared movements. When MakTime discontinued the 31XX series, all values went up. The watch I bought for $65 couldn't be had new for less than $150 a year later. Of course used watches lose value, but $29 for a recent 3105-based watch is a steal. The movement is bulletproof. "

 

Edited by mcass
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This reminds me also of another question. Now that I have had this watch for about a month now, something interesting has happened which is kind of funny. One of the reasons this particular one caught my eye is because of the red hands on the black dial. As I have had it for a little while I have noticed that the red of the hands is disappearing and showing an original gold hand.It appears that whoever had this watch had actually taken like a felt tip marker and colored the hands red. It still looks sharp with gold but I do like the red better. So with that said my two questions: 1) Is it possible to paint the hands and is so how?, and 2) would doing so negatively affect the value?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, mcass said:

This reminds me also of another question. Now that I have had this watch for about a month now, something interesting has happened which is kind of funny. One of the reasons this particular one caught my eye is because of the red hands on the black dial. As I have had it for a little while I have noticed that the red of the hands is disappearing and showing an original gold hand.It appears that whoever had this watch had actually taken like a felt tip marker and colored the hands red. It still looks sharp with gold but I do like the red better. So with that said my two questions: 1) Is it possible to paint the hands and is so how?, and 2) would doing so negatively affect the value?

Haha, I remember watching some guy on youtube painting his watch hands with a sharpie.

For a red second hand, I think your only options are to either paint it red with model paint or completely replace it with a red second hand. The sharpie probably gave it a more electro plated effect though, and I doubt that could be done on the cheap or for you to find someone willing to do it.

For value, it depends on what the watch is.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had a few custom jobs in recently whereas painting some of the hands was required, not for the faint hearted!  Took a while to mix the paint right, and get it to flow onto the hand with a good enough finish ready for the final clear coat.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re filled/rolled gold.  I have a rolled gold Omega Semaster Auto which I have owned since new and that is now 50 years old and the gold is still in excellent condition with no signs of wearthrough.  A few dings here and there though!  I have worn it probably 60% of its age so the gold has fared very well considering I was quite carefree with it when I first got it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks so much for the advice. I may give it a go at some point. On another note.... I tried to repair my first watch a few weeks ago and got as far as having it completely disassembled.  It was a Fossil Skeleton mechanical. At this point Im thinking its trash (or a parts source for future repairs). I say this because while I thought it would be a good one to try for a first, I think I was terribly mistaken. After watching a few more videos, it seems to me that skeletons pose there own set of problems because it can be quite difficult to see how the components all go back together. I have an M9 Bulova Oceanographer that isnt running anymore and am thinking that movement is probably easier to work on. Would I be correct with that assessment?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a note...when taking the other one apart, I did keep all the parts in order that they were removed and put them in egg cartons to make the assembly easier. However towards the end I had three pieces basically fall out when I didnt intend for them too and so I did not see exactly how or where they fit.....hence an additional part of the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Disassembling a movement is a comparatively easy process and, as you say, keeping all the parts in a logical order is an excellent idea. One other tip, if you can spare the time, is to photograph each stage of the disassembly, bit by bit, with notes, using a macro lens or macro setting on your point and click. Then, when the time comes to reassemble, you have a visual record of what goes where and when by working backwards through the pics to your starting point.

And, when you've done all that, you'll have a lovely walkthrough to post on the forum!

:thumbsu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I got started on the Bulova 11BLC.  Unfortunately I didnt get far. Removed the movement, removed the hands, and then went to remove the dial and I didnt have a screwdriver small enough.Had to stop. I need more tools!!! When I get them I'll update on progress.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Non-magnetic is a poor description of such a hairspring. A better description would be unmagnetisable hairspring. There are metals and alloys that are attracted to magnets, but don’t become magnetised themselves. A hairspring made out such a material will be attracted to magnetised tweezers, but will not become magnetised. These hairsprings can be disrupted by being in close proximity to a magnet, but the disruption will cease the moment the magnet is moved away. These are hairsprings that could conceivably be disrupted by a magnetised hairspring stud. Best Regards, Mark
    • More than enough. Here's mine at the height I work at. I think the working distance with the included 0.5x Barlow lens is about 9".   So yes, that halves the magnification. The full story is the objective lens goes from 0.7x to 4.5x. The eyepieces are 10x, giving you the advertised magnification of 7x-45x. However the working distance is unacceptably short, so it comes with an 0.5x Barlow lens, reducing the magnification range to 3.5x-22.5x, but giving you a good working distance. What I did was buy a pair of Extreme Widefield 20x Eyepieces for when I need more magnification. You keep your high working distance, but get your 45x magnification back, at the cost of some width of field.
    • Modern ones after blue steel, invar, elinvar and nivarox , the shiny one are not supposed to become magnetised. But i have had them jump to tweezers. And i dont really understand the comment that what can be magnetised is the stud carrier and rate regulator and they can attract the hairspring ? If the hairspring is non magnetic then how can it be attracted to something else thats become magnetise, its non magnetic , that doesn't really make sense to be ?
    • Does it say 17 jewels on the dial or on the movement ?
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds. 
×
×
  • Create New...