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Omega Winding Rotor Axle Lubrication


hourtime

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So I found several the lubrication guides technical guides from the time period of your watch. The problem I have with the earlier guides is the favorite lubrication a choice for setting parts Your automatic axle etc. is something very light by the name of Synt-A-Lube. Today we know it as Moebius 9010. Then one of the guides much much later notice the setting parts of now lubricated with HP 1300 considerably heavier than 9010 but they're still using oil in places where I would use a grease. For the automatic axle you do need something relatively light as it has to be very very free. So maybe 9020 possibly one of the light HP oils.

 

 

 

http://www.awci.com/wp-content/uploads/watch-tech-guides/Omega-Tech-Guides/551.pdf

 

http://www.awci.com/wp-content/uploads/watch-tech-guides/Omega-Tech-Guides/Omega-455.pdf

 

http://primrosesupplies.com/Swiss%20Tech%20Guides/Omega%20tech%20Guides/3888.pdf

Omega 470 500.PDF

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    • I also see a bit of danger for the wheel, at least you have to keep away from it and may get a too thick rest ring. My rest rings are about 0.05 mm. Better way would be a grinding wheel touching the staff with its circumference. Frank
    • Not easy to find this one everywhere,  so it depends where you are located. Joining it back together might be possible, i have silver soldered mild steel before even with traditional plumbers lead and its a pretty strong joint, but bere in mind this is only 1mm diameter.  The join would need to be very accurate,  it not something i have heard of anyone trying before. The part no 401 is the swiss code number and relates to watch winding stems in general
    • Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. I think between us we’ve worked out what’s going on. Next job is to have a proper look at this great wheel assembly, see if I can remove the clip and the friction fit pinion, give the bits a good clean, then put it back together with a bit of blue grease. I’ll also get the pallet fork under the microscope to see if it’s ok or been damaged. 
    • The cannon pinion (be it conventional style or what you see in this movement) should slip on its arbour so the hands can be set independently without affecting the gear train.  If there is too much friction between the cannon pinion and the second wheel, turning the hands to set them backwards can sometimes force the escape wheel teeth to overrun the pallet stones, creating the behaviour you describe. The train is running in reverse when this happens.  This can often chip the pallet stones. I’d say at least half of the watches I’ve inspected with very tight cannon pinions had chipped pallet stones. Hopefully this isn’t the case with your watch.  I’m not familiar with this movement but you need to get the friction in the cannon pinion adjusted correctly.  Hope this helps, Mark
    • Pallet fork was in. I’d had the movement running ok, and only removed the balance to flip it over and install the keyless works and date mechanism. The pallet fork wasn’t locking the gear train when hand setting - it was oscillating as the escape wheel rotated. This may have been in one direction only - can’t remember. 
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