Finally dipping my toes into clocks... Seth Thomas 1302

[oldhippy]

There is no need to lacquer this movement. If you want to prevent it from tarnishing quick, French chalk it using a block of French chalk and a soft clean brush which should only be used with chalk. Removing old lacquer clean all brass parts in Horolene clock cleaner make sure all parts are covered if not it leaves a tide make and it is impossible to remove. Use in a well ventilated place and wear rubber gloves.  

Edited April 6 by oldhippy

[Dell]

9 hours ago, spectre6000 said:

Trying to find lacquer. Reading up, it seems the preferred is probably brushed on Horolacq, but can't seem to get that in the US. All I'm finding is a spray variety... 

Also, now that we're so "great", it's worth trying to find US sources that have already brought materials into the country in hopes that I can avoid paying the hefty new taxes. My go-to stateside has been Esslinger, but it seems they don't really do much with clocks. What's the story on getting clockmaking goodies stateside?

Mohawk lacquer for brass is what I use on torsion clocks but it’s spray on wouldn’t recommend on clock plates but it dries very quickly.

 

Edited April 6 by Dell

[spectre6000]

Just had an epiphany: I have a meaningful percentage of a gallon jug of L&R Extra Fine Watch US solution. Costs the same as a new gallon of clock cleaning solution, only I already have it. Should work just fine, right? I'll need to do a thorough pre-clean to get rid of the axle grease though... What would work to preclean without damaging existing lacquer? I imagine the L&R will probably be gentle on any existing lacquer as long as I don't strip it all off with whatever I pre-clean with.

Also, I have pounds of various grades of shellac flakes (actually, maybe only two grades right now...). Historically, I'm sure that's what would have been used on metals like this. Any reason that wouldn't work? I could make up a small thin batch, and it would brush on easily. Should be easy enough to keep it out of pivot holes, and an alcohol soaked string would be all it would take to clean up any mistakes. Any reason that wouldn't work in the event re-lacquering is required/desired?

[LittleWatchShop]

33 minutes ago, spectre6000 said:

Costs the same as a new gallon of clock cleaning solution

No, not really.  The L&R clock cleaning solution is a concentrate.  Seven parts water to one part L&R.  That being said, L&R Fine will do just 'fine' to clean the clock.  It will remove the lacquer, however.  Not sure there is a way to get around it unless you use dawn liquid soap.  And, that would work as well.  IMHO, I would follow up with pegging all holes.  You should be fine.  After removing from the ultrasonic, rinse in water and then follow up with a rinse in IPA. Dry with a hair dryer.

Since you are new to clocks, you do not have the appropriate tool for the mainsprings.  I suggest that you take a shortcut. Remove the barrel covers and inspect.  Most likely ok except for dry.  Oil with a thick oil...thicker than any of your watch oils.  I use a lightweight mainspring oil that is probably in the range of 20 weight...dunno for sure, but the internet is still working today.

I suggest you install the chime train by itself and test it.  Most of the energy is in this train, so the most likely pivot issues.

[spectre6000]

1 hour ago, LittleWatchShop said:

No, not really.  The L&R clock cleaning solution is a concentrate.  Seven parts water to one part L&R.  That being said, L&R Fine will do just 'fine' to clean the clock.  It will remove the lacquer, however.  Not sure there is a way to get around it unless you use dawn liquid soap.  And, that would work as well.  IMHO, I would follow up with pegging all holes.  You should be fine.  After removing from the ultrasonic, rinse in water and then follow up with a rinse in IPA. Dry with a hair dryer.

Since you are new to clocks, you do not have the appropriate tool for the mainsprings.  I suggest that you take a shortcut. Remove the barrel covers and inspect.  Most likely ok except for dry.  Oil with a thick oil...thicker than any of your watch oils.  I use a lightweight mainspring oil that is probably in the range of 20 weight...dunno for sure, but the internet is still working today.

I suggest you install the chime train by itself and test it.  Most of the energy is in this train, so the most likely pivot issues.

Actually, you make a good point. So far, this is a one off. Cleaning it up with dish soap and a toothbrush will probably get the job done just fine without damaging the existing lacquer. There was a time before US cleaners were a thing, and clocks got cleaned just fine then too.

I don't have a mainspring tool for clocks, but I don't have one for watches either. I spent some time the other evening looking for clock mainspring videos, and every single one had the spring done by hand. Cousins sells complete barrels for this thing, and seems to do quite a bit of volume in these in particular. Worst case scenario, that's an easy fall back. Still have to track down my oils, but that shouldn't be too difficult. Any suggestions for US based clock supply houses? Your name came up specifically in the Discord as someone who might have a good bead on one.

Good idea. I'm going to want to mess around with that train and the chime train in particular just for educational purposes, so isolating them like that makes sense.

[LittleWatchShop]

6 minutes ago, spectre6000 said:

and every single one had the spring done by hand

If you are not careful, you will be counting in base 9, or ordering a book on "Talk like a Pirate Day." Or both.  It can be done...I have done it...but be cautious.

The beautiful thing about this movement is that the winding arbor extracts from the barrel allowing the barrels to be removed plates in tact.

[Dell]

Being a Hermle movement they have a factory in the USA if memory serves.

you can make your own mainspring winder there are plans on NAWCC

Dell

Edited April 6 by Dell
Forgot something

[oldhippy]

Extra Fine Watch US solution that will strip of the old lacquer