Beginner's Question re Schatz 54 1000 day clock suspension block

[ChrisInOz]

Hi Folks.

My first attempt to work on a torsion clock.

Last year I picked up this Schatz 54 1000 day for $12 at an auction where I was buying old wristwatches.   It has a broken suspension spring.

I dismantled and cleaned it during the last few weeks,  and am now in the process of assembling the new suspension. 

I have the correct new suspension spring,  and the original blocks and fork.

Problem:  When I take the two screws out of the bottom suspension block,  I cannot part the two plates.   It feels as if they are glued together,  there is no give in them at all.

Looking at the plates under magnification,  you can see that the broken end of the spring is still between the plates.  See picture.

I was expecting these plates to separate easily after taking out the screws,  so that I could shake the broken piece out and insert the new spring,  but, no dice.

@DellIs there some technique for this that I don't know? Could it be that the last repairer glued the spring into the block?

I see that Cousins sells replacements for these blocks,  so I can always order one,  but I am keen to know if I am doing something wrong here.

Cheers,  Chris.

[Dell]

Hi Chris

both parts of the block are a tight fit on the pin on some blocks I use a blade to get it apart then broach one side slightly to make life easier in future, I have done a video of Schatz 1000 day restoration if it’s any help.

Did you remove the saddle? If you did then that takes a bit of setting up because it is also the eccentric bush .

Dell

 

Forgot add the picture of my 1000 day from video.

[oldhippy]

As dell has said. I would use  razor blade. 

[ChrisInOz]

5 hours ago, Dell said:

Did you remove the saddle? If you did then that takes a bit of setting up because it is also the eccentric bush .

Yes,  I did remove it.  The clock was very oily and dirty,  so I disassembled the whole train (apart from the centre wheel which is captive in the front plate,) and cleaned it all manually in Shellite. 

The last person who worked on the clock very kindly left a scratch mark on the plate to indicate the correct saddle position,  so I have put it back in the same place.   I won't know if it's right until I install the new torsion assembly,  but I have verified that the anchor takes an impulse from both pallets,  and it doesn't flutter.

5 hours ago, Dell said:

I have done a video of Schatz 1000 day restoration if it’s any help.

Yes,  I watched it and it was helpful, thank you.  I also watched your video on installing a new torsion spring.

I have Terwilliger's 9th edition for the measurements.

5 hours ago, Dell said:

I use a blade to get it apart then broach one side slightly to make life easier in future

Thanks,  I will give that a try. 

[Dell]

Remember that fork position in book is just a starting position, maybe correct but may have to alter very slightly.

Good luck Dell

[ChrisInOz]

Movement is now running on the bench with its new suspension.   It has been running for almost 5 hours now.

Time for me to finish the reassembly (dial, hands,  base and suspension shield,) and check on  the timekeeping.

Thank you @Dell for your advice.

[ChrisInOz]

Clock is reassembled and running now.

I'm still setting the rate, but as of this afternoon it was within 2 minutes per day.

Interesting that my clock has Arabic numerals, while the one that @Dell posted has Roman. I didn't know both options were available.

Edited January 22 by ChrisInOz
more text.

[Dell]

I am pleased with the time keeping on my one @ 1 minute in 3 months , much better that most of my torsion clocks approximately 1 minute a week ( normal ) apart from my Grivolas ( French ) about a minute in 6 months.

Dell

This is a Grivolas 

 

[ChrisInOz]

1 hour ago, Dell said:

I am pleased with the time keeping on my one @ 1 minute in 3 months , much better that most of my torsion clocks

 

That is really impressive. I would be very pleased to achieve that with mine.

Do I need to lubricate the impulse faces of the anchor at all?  I am running them dry at the moment.

I haven't oiled the anchor pivot jewels either.

[oldhippy]

This is what i used to do my watch oiler every other tooth of the escape wheel and on both faces of the pallets and to stop fluttering and to make it easy with the escape action using the same size oiler a wee drop each side of the pallet post that goes in between the pallet fork. 

[Dell]

I used watch oil on both the pallets & jewelled pivots but I only put a small amount on the pallets as when the escape wheel teeth hits the pallet my thinking was that would spread onto every tooth right or wrong I am not sure but that’s what I did .

Must admit OH I hadn’t thought about oil to help stop fluttering but it makes sense, on torsion clocks the usual thing to stop flutter is to raise fork 1/2 to 1mm.

Dell

[HectorLooi]

I just re-serviced two of my anniversary clocks which I oiled with Windles clock oil. I think the last time I serviced them was 4 years ago. Is this an acceptable duration between service?

This time I used all synthetic oils. HP1300 for the barrel arbor and 2nd wheel. Moebius 9020 for all the rest. I hope synthetic oils will give a longer service life.

I also oiled the suspension fork, which I learnt from @oldhippy four years ago. I found the inside surface of the suspension fork a little rough and I burnished it with a suitable sized screwdriver blade. This resulted in an improvement in the amplitude.