Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Can anyone you recommend a source and a type of good diamond files? The ones I have are from Cousins "budget set" and while they work ok for roughing out a general shape, I find  they are to course/rough for fine details (e.g. small parts, gear cutters).

Edited by caseback
Posted
2 hours ago, caseback said:

Can anyone you recommend a source and a type of good diamond files? The ones I have are from Cousins "budget set" and while they work ok for roughing out a general shape, I find  they are to course/rough for fine details (e.g. small parts, gear cutters).

Have you tried making any caseback ?

I made this a couple of years ago , it measures 1mm square....cut from a small diamond sharpening stone cut from a 2000 grit lapping plate. Ive yet to make another from a 5000 grit disk

17307541590232420751254237027643.jpg

17307542285884859079624788953741.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Have you tried making any caseback ?

I made this a couple of years ago , it measures 1mm square....cut from a small diamond sharpening stone cut from a 2000 grit lapping plate. Ive yet to make another from a 5000 grit disk.

Thnx. I'll give that a try. 👍

Should work better than juggling these larger plates trying to improve my gear cutters geometry...

20241104_222351.jpg

Edited by caseback
Posted
51 minutes ago, caseback said:

Thnx. I'll give that a try. 👍

Should work better than juggling these larger plates trying to improve my gear cutters geometry...

20241104_222351.jpg

I use it for shaping setting levers etc from annealed or hardened steel, not sure how you gonna make a round though 😅

Posted

While not cheap, the Vallorbe "buff" files are fanstasic. Vallorbe says they are equivalent to a 10 cut file, but you can get an even finer finish with a lighter touch. They're cagey about what exactly they are coated with ("composite abrasives"), but they will cut tungsten carbide no sweat, and ruby too. An added bonus is the handle is also coated, so you can use the handle for manky work, keeping the formed end in better shape.

 

I use the escapement files, but the needle files are the same just larger.

 

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/escapement-buff-files?code=F59706

https://www.vallorbe.com/en-ch/products/files/buff-files

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Posted

I recently picked up a watch/clockmaker job lot with some very fine diamond files, not vallorbe, but look decent.

So they are out there.

Tom

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Watchrepairtalk, I have some questions about part sourcing I was hoping someone here might be able to help with. I'm working on an FHF 180 movement with a broken balance staff, broken regulator pins, and damaged cap jewels (both top and bottom). Some Googling says that this is similar to other FHF calibers like 150s, 160s, 180s and so on but I can't figure out what the functional difference is between these movements.  Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to acquire a donor FHF 150 or similar (with no shock protection) and use parts from that or would it be smarter to source replacements individually? Also are there any sources someone could recommend to get bulk cap jewels like this? Thank you for the help!
    • Hello and welcome to the WRT forum.
    • interesting video nice to see the machine what it can do now I wonder what it costs and I'm sure it's not in my budget. Plus the video brought up questions but the website below answers the questions? What was bothering me was the size of his machine 4 mm because I thought it was bigger than that? But then it occurred to me that maybe they had variations it looks like four, seven and 10. With the seven and 10 being the best because way more tool positions in way more rotating tools. Although I bet you all the rotating tools are probably separate cost https://www.tornos.com/en/content/swissnano   Then as we been talking about Sherline. Just so that everyone's aware of this they have another division their industrial division where you can buy bits and pieces. I have a link below that shows that just in case you don't want to have the entire machine you just need bits and pieces. https://www.sherline.com/product-category/industrial-products-division/   Let's see what we can do with the concept I explained up above and bits and pieces. For one thing you can make a really tiny gear very tiny like perhaps you're going to make a watch. Then another version the center part is not separate it is all machined from one piece. Then fills gear cutting machines have gone through multiple of evolutions. A lot of it based on what he wanted to make like he was going to make a watch unfortunately eyesight issues have prevented that. Another reason why you should start projects like this much sooner when your eyesight is really good or perhaps start on watches first and then move the clocks then local we have from the industrial division? Looks like two separate motors and heads. Then it's hard to see but this entire thing is built on top of a much larger milling machine as a larger milling machine gave a very solid platform to build everything.   Then like everything else that had multiple generations are versions the indexing went through of course variations like above is one version and the one below was the last version. Now the version below I mentioned that previously and somewhere in the beginning to discussion and somebody else had one in their picture. As it is a really nice precision indexing. Then I wasn't sure if I had a the watch photos here is his unfinished watch. No he wasn't going to make a simple watch like none of his clocks were simply either what would be the challenge and that.    
    • Use a Portwest Howie lab coat. They are the biological type so they have tapped cuffs so you don't end up getting the loose cuffs of normal lab coats catching everything. 
    • Some of the Chinese tools ae great and can be purchased at a fraction of the price of Swiss ones, some are complete garbage and some I'm convinced are coming out the same factory as the branded ones.
×
×
  • Create New...