Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

I bought a vintage Champion deployment watch band, and I can't figure out how to remove an extra link. As usual the links have holes on both sides. But not as usual, they appear to be spring loaded from the center. I can push the pin in from either side, and it pops right back out again. I don't want to break it by pushing it hard from one side until I understand how it works. Do you have to depress the pins from both sides? Any assistance would be appreciated. 

IMG_4789.jpg

IMG_4790.jpg

Posted

I see you have moved the watch band in as far as it will go in the clasp. When you push the pin in can you not move it a little so it doesn't pop back in. The other thing is all the links that can be removed have been take out and what you have is the links that look the same but nothing can be removed. 

Posted

Thank you oldhippy. So even though those links have holes on the side, you don't think they are removable? I will try  your suggestion to push in the pin and move it to the side a little bit, to see if it will stay in. I appreciate your response. 

David

Posted
6 hours ago, oldhippy said:

The other thing is all the links that can be removed have been take out and what you have is the links that look the same but nothing can be removed.

Looks like there's 1 removable link on each side.

Even if all the links had been removed you'd still be able to break strap to add links back in.

  • Like 2
Posted

If those links with holes are dummies you won't be able to remove them without damaging the band. I have seen so many that look as if they can be removed  but they can't, its a case of try and see. 

Posted

those links with holes look removable to me, you just have to figure out what type of pin is used, some are folded type, some are spring type, some are serrated and there is a type that uses a center notched tube and matching pin

Posted

Thank you oldhippy. So even though those links have holes on the side, you don't think they are removable? I will try  your suggestion to push in the pin and move it to the side a little bit, to see if it will stay in. I appreciate your response. 

David

Cyclops,

So I can push the pins in from both sides...and then they just spring back out again. Is there some trick to pushing them in from both sides to remove the pin? Do you have to do both sides at the same time? 

Posted

How about putting a long pin or screw driver blade small enough to go into the hole so it can push the pin in a vice, then push down on the top end in the hole and move it a little so in cant go back in the hole. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Cyclops,

So I can push the pins in from both sides...and then they just spring back out again. Is there some trick to pushing them in from both sides to remove the pin? Do you have to do both sides at the same time? 

Hi all. So I figured it out. There was a pin in the center, with springs on both sides. The outer parts of the link are connected and move in unison. So I had to push one side pin in, and pull the link end up a bit, then try the other side. At least one time I managed to do both sides as once and the link outside ends rotated up and I was able to disassemble it. But it wasn't easy...

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Watchrepairtalk, I have some questions about part sourcing I was hoping someone here might be able to help with. I'm working on an FHF 180 movement with a broken balance staff, broken regulator pins, and damaged cap jewels (both top and bottom). Some Googling says that this is similar to other FHF calibers like 150s, 160s, 180s and so on but I can't figure out what the functional difference is between these movements.  Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to acquire a donor FHF 150 or similar (with no shock protection) and use parts from that or would it be smarter to source replacements individually? Also are there any sources someone could recommend to get bulk cap jewels like this? Thank you for the help!
    • Hello and welcome to the WRT forum.
    • interesting video nice to see the machine what it can do now I wonder what it costs and I'm sure it's not in my budget. Plus the video brought up questions but the website below answers the questions? What was bothering me was the size of his machine 4 mm because I thought it was bigger than that? But then it occurred to me that maybe they had variations it looks like four, seven and 10. With the seven and 10 being the best because way more tool positions in way more rotating tools. Although I bet you all the rotating tools are probably separate cost https://www.tornos.com/en/content/swissnano   Then as we been talking about Sherline. Just so that everyone's aware of this they have another division their industrial division where you can buy bits and pieces. I have a link below that shows that just in case you don't want to have the entire machine you just need bits and pieces. https://www.sherline.com/product-category/industrial-products-division/   Let's see what we can do with the concept I explained up above and bits and pieces. For one thing you can make a really tiny gear very tiny like perhaps you're going to make a watch. Then another version the center part is not separate it is all machined from one piece. Then fills gear cutting machines have gone through multiple of evolutions. A lot of it based on what he wanted to make like he was going to make a watch unfortunately eyesight issues have prevented that. Another reason why you should start projects like this much sooner when your eyesight is really good or perhaps start on watches first and then move the clocks then local we have from the industrial division? Looks like two separate motors and heads. Then it's hard to see but this entire thing is built on top of a much larger milling machine as a larger milling machine gave a very solid platform to build everything.   Then like everything else that had multiple generations are versions the indexing went through of course variations like above is one version and the one below was the last version. Now the version below I mentioned that previously and somewhere in the beginning to discussion and somebody else had one in their picture. As it is a really nice precision indexing. Then I wasn't sure if I had a the watch photos here is his unfinished watch. No he wasn't going to make a simple watch like none of his clocks were simply either what would be the challenge and that.    
    • Use a Portwest Howie lab coat. They are the biological type so they have tapped cuffs so you don't end up getting the loose cuffs of normal lab coats catching everything. 
    • Some of the Chinese tools ae great and can be purchased at a fraction of the price of Swiss ones, some are complete garbage and some I'm convinced are coming out the same factory as the branded ones.
×
×
  • Create New...