Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all.

I have just cleaned and reassembled a Smiths 1960s/70s mantel clock with a floating balance escapement. It was working before I took it apart but after cleaning and reassembling, it refuses to budge. The balance itself is fine (I cleaned it gently with lighter fuel) and there doesn't appear to be any bent pivots. When the pallets rock they don't move enough to allow the escape wheel to 'jump'. Any thoughts on what might be causing this?

20240928_225545.thumb.jpg.879285b52b70f2d0bfb3486edcb0dea6.jpg20240928_225538.thumb.jpg.b6c4fc1d5f33eb388c207a87325c3d02.jpg20240928_225436.thumb.jpg.31d942be80e1c23afb52f6e6435257c2.jpg20240928_225454.thumb.jpg.18d3a3df69515c1ba1a94a9bbbeab754.jpg20240928_225347.thumb.jpg.ae803a677ce87d36f03395ce2779be41.jpg20240928_225323.thumb.jpg.e18678cdb580dcd798945aadf8d9a462.jpg

Posted

Hi Rixy,

See, the balance is on a separate platform, but the lever is not on it, it is on the movement together wit the escape wheel. The special thing here is that there are banking pins, and they are on the balance platform. The problem You describe is because the banking pins are shifted (together with the entire balance platform) from their correct position that will allow normal work of the lever. Now it is clear seen that when the lever top is moved right and has rested on the banking pin, the downside pin is still on the impulse surface. This means that the entire balance platform must move a little right, just enough to allow the pin to leave the impulse plain. So You must untighten the nuts that fix the balance platform, find the platform correct position that gives normal lever action (this is when 'run to the banking' is equal in both sides) and then tighten the nuts.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thank you both for your replies. After some adjustment I finally have managed to get it running.

Every problem is a learning opportunity.  Cheers!

  • Like 2
Posted

Hi OH. The bottom pallet pin was snagging on the escape wheel so although there was power to move the wheel, it was unable to go. I gently squeezed the pallets to the left and that released it. It's been running like a good-un since then.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ive got a 3220 dd module here that i go back to every now and then an it never works correctly , massive pain as i love the watch i that needs it!  
    • I'm a little confused here before servicing everything was fine and now it's not? Then I'm assuming if you run it without the chronograph modular runs just fine or does it give you problems then? Then as far as tightening goes I've occasionally seen people use a staking set and sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. You can also disassemble and flip it over that sometimes works. Otherwise try eBay and maybe one will come up. There is a tiny possibility if the Problem is on the gear part and not on the center tube that you could purchase a shorter version and pop it on your longer version that's a speculation on my part that may be that might work but if the tube itself is worn then you're going to have a problem then it's back to eBay and just try to find one in the first place all sorts of things will show up on eBay sooner or later.    
    • Why do you need a whole balance assembly (balance complete)? Staffs are readily available and cheap.
    • Hi welcome to the forum. Enjoy. dictionary_ebauches_sa.pdf TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf
    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
×
×
  • Create New...