Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone

Having some issues opening this caseback. I've tried with the rubber ball and it won't budge. Can't find a slot on the caseback so I don't think it's a snap on and I'm fairly certain it's not a front loader. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

20240822_202637.jpg

20240822_202658.jpg

Posted
24 minutes ago, Malocchio said:

Haven't tried myself but some people epoxy a nut to the caseback and open with a wrench.

Hadn't heard of epoxy, but I've used super glue to open a caseback like that.  Superglue a nut to it.  Wrench it to loosen.  Use acetone to remove the super glue.

  • Like 3
Posted
5 hours ago, enz0 said:

Hi everyone

Having some issues opening this caseback. I've tried with the rubber ball and it won't budge. Can't find a slot on the caseback so I don't think it's a snap on and I'm fairly certain it's not a front loader. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

20240822_202637.jpg

20240822_202658.jpg

Enso not all casebacks have an openning notch. The usual method for removing stubborn screwdown casebacks is cyanoacrylate glue, just regular superglue. Thin set fast , thick is slower to cure but has a stronger bond. Glue a 16mm nut onto the back, i clamp it up so it gets a tight hold, it hasn't failed me yet. A word of warning from experience, one of my first attempts removing a back like you are showing ended jn disaster, it was a false screwdown on a lucerne watch, i completely trashed it trying to twist it off lol. Just make sure there is definitely a join between the case and back.

  • Like 2
Posted

I've removed one of those with a cheap three jaw caseback tool, using the widest bits & with a bit of clingfilm over the case first to reduce the chance of scratches.

I had to hold the case itself in some slipjoint pipe grips to get enough force on it!

(Gripping the case in the strap lug slots with a folded microfiber cloth over the grips first).

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 8/23/2024 at 3:58 PM, gpraceman said:

Hadn't heard of epoxy, but I've used super glue to open a caseback like that.  Superglue a nut to it.  Wrench it to loosen.  Use acetone to remove the super glue.

Thanks for the response, I have considered trying that but I wasn't so sure how to actually get the super glue off after

Posted
On 8/23/2024 at 4:25 PM, Neverenoughwatches said:

Enso not all casebacks have an openning notch. The usual method for removing stubborn screwdown casebacks is cyanoacrylate glue, just regular superglue. Thin set fast , thick is slower to cure but has a stronger bond. Glue a 16mm nut onto the back, i clamp it up so it gets a tight hold, it hasn't failed me yet. A word of warning from experience, one of my first attempts removing a back like you are showing ended jn disaster, it was a false screwdown on a lucerne watch, i completely trashed it trying to twist it off lol. Just make sure there is definitely a join between the case and back.

Thank you for the advice! I wanted to ask everyone before trying the superglue method in case there was something I wasn't doing right. I've checked everywhere and it seems like it's a screw on caseback. It's also labelled as a "wateeproof" watch

Posted
On 8/23/2024 at 4:38 PM, AndyGSi said:

There looks to be a notch here just to the right of the crown and the ST of STEEL.

image.png.fa226263b263ec7590b9d952d36a1f2e.png

I cleaned around it and checked again but definitely no slot

Posted
9 minutes ago, enz0 said:

Thanks for the response, I have considered trying that but I wasn't so sure how to actually get the super glue off after

Leave it to soak in acetone, that will soften the glue or you can use heat but that can be a bit more risky depending on how you approach it.

 

Tom

  • Thanks 1
Posted
19 hours ago, rjenkinsgb said:

I've removed one of those with a cheap three jaw caseback tool, using the wirjenkinsgddest bits & with a bit of clingfilm over the case first to reduce the chance of scratches.

Hi @rjenkinsgb 

Yes possible to remove with three jaw tool,specially if the case back has previously been removed/ replaced , and your safety precaution  sounds good.  

These types of case back is well built and specially designed to press a copper O ring washer to acheive  full water tightness. The problem with them  is once you open the case back, the previously pressed copper washer in there would not further get pressed and must be replaced with a new one, which are hard to find.

Rgds

 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 8/23/2024 at 4:44 PM, rjenkinsgb said:

a cheap three jaw caseback tool

I assume you mean a Jaxa tool, no?

On 8/23/2024 at 9:04 AM, Nucejoe said:

You need a decagonal case back wrench.

image.png

Are those tools general purpose? That is, will they work with, for example, both Breitling and Enicar cases?

Edited by VWatchie
Posted
9 hours ago, VWatchie said:

I assume you mean a Jaxa tool, no?

Yes - having searched that name, that's what I have got! (Or a clone). I never saw the name for them before..

 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
    • That Island looks pretty good on the pics I found. Must be nice to live there. Welcome! Are there many watchmakers over there?
×
×
  • Create New...