Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone,

I am still trying to find a decent one that I can acquire. Found one in a local antique sort of store. They are asking too much I think, especially due to the fact that the base is cracked.

I will try to explain what I saw.

The circular base has two 'rolls' for want of a better word before it gets to the top surface of the base.

The crack on this base runs at 90 degrees to the two 'rolls'. From the bottom edge of the base all the way to the top horizontal surface.

The reason I am asking is that I am wondering if the base of an anniversary clocks is brass or are they another base metal, steel?, with brass plating? If so, this clock base may be repairable. I can't remember what brand it was. Sorry.

If they are brass plated, how do you replace it so that it has a mirror finish? I have seen a couple of YT videos where the person is mechanically plating by heating the part to be plated and then vigorous brushing with a brass brush which mechanically plates the steel. However, no-one seems to answer the question of how to get a mirror finish.

Is a mirror finish only possible with electro plating? This question is in respect to another clock I have found in South Australia and the base is showing a lot of signs to suggest the brass coating is flaking off. This one is cheap compared to the one with the cracked base in the shop in Geelong.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/305654992071?itmmeta=01J23BGZFPX3T9M0KW0JMFRHSQ&hash=item472a750cc7:g:0U8AAOSwPrdmhosh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8EZZWbbe5OzksPlS07pedENWjUwQr7W76uvFqXK6xGvVsKzeIrnXrADMGJ6yFIY4yhnuHyHnwhL1Jzc1iJvrvtnwQcDIrBR4D8ohZGFMOOdYqFEOUZ84v4IfX3i9zGofPLjWTjZg8GIXyabw%2BvMEv4kOGnaoyUweBisAHxuiz5krNTYB6EmO62NFEchTcXtEPgj4wObzxr9wrYRaNA%2Fr9AfuXmM7vhmziVWhasZJcLcIc9A4D4zmfL%2Bktz9TXknAVWPbngL3u7p8ZlmtC%2FknQVFbLoVKk2xJ69omIblJ07OwHj6oXYrtdq3fZ5%2BNspWjZw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_T3w-uQZA&autorefresh=true

Any & all answers are appreciated.

Posted

What the hell happened for it to have a crack in the base. Some have what I will describe as a wooden filler but not that many. If I were you I would leave that one. The one on ebay for the base lots of elbow grease very fine steel wool, you need to check for lacquer first if it is then laquer thinner then wash in soapy water but a again check to see if the base has a filler, if so be very careful with washing. 

Posted

That base is a mess, most early bases had solid spun brass but later ones tended to be very thin brass skin over a steel substrate and a lot have as oldhippy said a wood infill & very few had brass plate.

Dell

Posted (edited)

Thanks guys. I'm not in a rush for one. The right one will turn up.

And yes @oldhippy, I wondered that as well as to what could have happened that cracked it like that.

Edited by Michael1962
Posted

He will need to ask for the measurements to see if the movement he has will fit.  Looks as if the two posts have had the brass plating removed and it hasn't been done very well. 

Posted (edited)

The clock you were looking at is  a ( Kieninger & Obergfell ) Kundo for short the base is Gustav Becker although it may fit as long as the pillar mounting holes are in the correct place the dome may not fit as the GB looks to be pre WW1 the clock is 50’s , that Kundo is not the best of quality my advice would be look for a JUF or Schatz ( same company) preferably pre WW2

There is a Schatz1000 day carriage clock for sale on eBay runs for three years on one wind quite rare in uk, I have one but with glass dome even rarer .

Dell

IMG_1216.thumb.jpeg.16a906db4eafc3d308ef7c37f1c7bfa1.jpeg

Edited by Dell
Forgot something

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I believe @nickelsilver has a setup like that.
    • I posted pictures earlier in this thread. My lathe and mill are two separate instruments. I think I have seen examples of putting a milling head on a lathe bed...but not certain.
    • Timex Camper, September 1994, new to me. Strap is an old perlon with "Germany" in script etched into the resin on the tail end. Not Horlon or Eulit I believe. History unknown, running strong, losing less than a minute a day. Goals for this: Wear it a ton! Buy crystal lift, clean out the gunk around the ring and under the crystal Eventually swap into a stainless steel case. I've seen a member who has swapped a Timex mechanical movement into the Timex J.Crew quartz field watch case.
    • One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...