Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi gents.

I got a used, but working SW330-1 movement. In order to assemble it, I need a dial spacer, since it didn't come with one.

Since this movement is identical to the ETA 2893, I looked for dial spacers for these 2, but come up with nothing.

There are, however, plenty of dial spacers for ETA 2824 and 2836. Will these fit?

Thanks

Posted

In the Ofrei page, I found the part nr 145 in a Sellita SW200-1 parts page.

The part is compatible with the following movements: BUL 1412.11, BUL 1413.11, BUL 1413.30, ESA 952.101, ESA 952.111, ESA 952.121, ETA 2801-2, ETA 2802, ETA 2803, ETA 2804, ETA 2804-1, ETA 2804-2, ETA 2805, ETA 2806, ETA 2808, ETA 2809, ETA 2810, ETA 2811, ETA 2812, ETA 2813, ETA 2816-1, ETA 2822, ETA 2822R, ETA 2824, ETA 2824-1, ETA 2824R, ETA 2826, ETA 2826R, ETA 2828, ETA 2828R, ETA 2829,ETA 2829R, ETA 2830, ETA 2830R, ETA 2831, ETA 2831R, ETA 2832, ETA 2832R, ETA 2836-2, KF 737, KF 738, KF 739, TIS 3108, ETA 2836-1, ETA 2846, ETA 2893-1, ETA 2893-2, ETA 2893-3, ETA 2824-2
SELLITA SW200, SW200-1, SW210-1, SW215-1

But the SW330-1 is not listed, although it states that it fits the ETA 2893-1 which is similar to the SW330-1. Maybe they forgot to include this movement in the list, no?

Can we conclude that the 145 is in fact compatible with all those ETA movements, plus those Sellita?

This would make my search easier.

Thanks

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, BFernandes said:

Can we conclude that the 145 is in fact compatible with all those ETA movements, plus those Sellita?

There is a chance, but I wouldn't count on it. If I remember correctly, you can request parts not listed on the Cousins site. They may already have the part in stock but did not list it for some reason.

EDIT:

Found it! It's £2.15 and in stock!

SellitaSW330-1DialSupport.thumb.gif.39095ef6c42f0f9970b184d9cd5c923f.gif

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
    • How long had it been without any wind before you first put it on the timegrapher?  Perhaps there was some debris / old lubricant that loosened up while you were waiting to do the 24 hour reading? I recently serviced a Seiko 6319 that immediately after service was absolutely horrible on the timegrapher - 24 hours later (without me doing anything) it was rock solid!  I was a little surprised by this (as I have seen improvements in amplitude after letting it run in but never a watch going from useless to great!). I was suspicious that some dirt must still be in there so I took it apart and cleaned and lubcricated it again and had exactly the same experience - snow storm that after some hours turned into a nice straigh line with good amplitude 🤷‍♂️
    • Yes, I know it was able to run before just enough that everything supposed to be affixed with shellac could fall out. I won't get back to work on this watch for several days at least, but one thing you mentioned about the banking pin adjustments being intended for fork horn clearance got me wondering.... The last adjustment I made to the entry stone yesterday did not solve the problem when the balance is installed. The escape teeth can't quite clear the stone when the balance swings. But I thought it was going to work because manually snapping the fork back and forth did allow the escape wheel to advance almost all the time. I wonder if there's another issue with the impulse jewel, that I have to shellac again anyway. I am going to measure the fork slot and the jewel because I am curious if it is the right size or possibly narrower than it should be. My thinking is if the horn clearance is too great maybe it is not getting enough impulse to clear the escape tooth. But pushing the fork with a tool can move it far enough to clear the escape wheel tooth.  I'll see later in the week. I didn't expect a big challenge from this watch because it ticked for 5 minutes before stopping without shellac. As always I was way wrong.
×
×
  • Create New...