Waltham A-11 Hairspring and Balance assessment help needed.
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By Brewerpaul · Posted
I recently acquired this watch. I successfully replaced the battery, but I would like to replace the badly scratched plastic crystal, and maybe the bezel. Also, the setting stem seems tight to adjust. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions. I have a basic set of watch repair tools, and am quite handy. Thanks. -
By Brewerpaul · Posted
Hi-- I'm Paul, from Frederick MD. I've never repaired a watch apart from replacing batteries. I have a basic set of tools for watch repair. Frankly I don't anticipate doing many repairs. I just acquired a Tag Heuer WA1210, 2006 vintage that sorely needs a new crystal, maybe a new bezel. I'll ask about it on the watch case forum. Different but interesting... I did do a repair of a vintage Ansonia mantle clock which was an education in itself. It occasionally needs tweaking but generally works well. -
By Terrinecold · Posted
I am interested in the response by more knowledgeable forum members. I have been assuming that the movements @djwilliams37 is referring to are authentic. I assumed that for a couple of reasons: the Japanese movements being made mostly of not all by machines and being fairly cheap as can be seen by the price of the final watches I am not sure the benefit from making fake movement would be there. After all the market of people buying a few movement here and there can’t be that big vs companies actually making watches and sourcing the movements in bulk. On the same platforms I see the actual clones correctly label. So I expected the problem of fake to be more at the level of complete watches and/or Swiss movements -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
I would say it does depend on how the keyless works are set up, i have had it happen once before. Pulling the stem to time set mode can also be a problem, that puts the yoke or setting lever under tension from it's spring and without the extra stability once the stem has been withdrawn and the set screw being loosened the yoke can flick over it's spring or something else. I find that happens from time to time usually its something cheap Rich, and force myself to stop pushing, I've broken a set lever more than once doing this. Dials tight up to the set lever cause this , cheap Smiths are renowned for it. Too much depth in the stem slot as well,I've shortened quite a few yoke bends to make the last job of entering the stem easier at the casing up stage. -
By DieselBurner · Posted
The non-lantern pinion and wheel combo are actually for the motion works. It drives the center wheel. Both the power and chime trains (including the regulator) are all lantern pinion style. The trundles in the lantern pinions all look to have no direct wear from the wheels - no rutting evident under magnification.
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