Jump to content

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, mikepilk said:

I only watched the start, but he's out on magnification by a factor of 10. It's 7X to 45X, not 450X

Oh weird! I saw this video months ago and made this exact comment on it. Or at least I thought I did, because I don't see it.

I noted that at 450x you'd be able to see individual blood cells.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/5/2024 at 6:09 PM, mikepilk said:

I only watched the start, but he's out on magnification by a factor of 10. It's 7X to 45X, not 450X

I would guess a simple mistake, I took it he meant 45, any thoughts on the scope?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Chief said:

I just watched this yesterday! Making me jealous! I'm still using a loupe wedged in my eye socket 🤣 definitely putting one of these on my Christmas list

Do, write a nice letter to Santa. I do all disassembly and assembly under the microscope. I consider it a necessity.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

Do, write a nice letter to Santa. I do all disassembly and assembly under the microscope. I consider it a necessity.

How do you find the working distance from microscope lens to movement? Is it comfortable enough to get tools in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Chief said:

How do you find the working distance from microscope lens to movement? Is it comfortable enough to get tools in?

More than enough. Here's mine at the height I work at. I think the working distance with the included 0.5x Barlow lens is about 9".
 

IMG_20240506_202446.thumb.jpg.20446ddc5d5ee704d6101f83393ea184.jpg

So yes, that halves the magnification. The full story is the objective lens goes from 0.7x to 4.5x. The eyepieces are 10x, giving you the advertised magnification of 7x-45x.

However the working distance is unacceptably short, so it comes with an 0.5x Barlow lens, reducing the magnification range to 3.5x-22.5x, but giving you a good working distance.

What I did was buy a pair of Extreme Widefield 20x Eyepieces for when I need more magnification. You keep your high working distance, but get your 45x magnification back, at the cost of some width of field.

image.png.175b5688e765095c043b7d92c1226f40.png

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree, game changer. I watched Alex's video as well. Another thing to consider is the adjustability of chair to bench and the head of the scope so that at max height is not above your eye level. I got the trinocular port for the camera but did not get a good enough camera and have not figured out how to run it though my laptop to make videos or just take stills through the scope, yet.20231029_0947003.thumb.jpg.729e431e723040e3847dced6ffb209ad.jpg

Get a couple of elbow pads, these are inexpensive and have sticky back, but I don't have them stuck down and can move them around.

20240405_114930~4.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Razz said:

I agree, game changer. I watched Alex's video as well. Another thing to consider is the adjustability of chair to bench and the head of the scope so that at max height is not above your eye level. I got the trinocular port for the camera but did not get a good enough camera and have not figured out how to run it though my laptop to make videos or just take stills through the scope, yet.20231029_0947003.thumb.jpg.729e431e723040e3847dced6ffb209ad.jpg

Get a couple of elbow pads, these are inexpensive and have sticky back, but I don't have them stuck down and can move them around.

20240405_114930~4.jpg

Chair height is not usually an issue unless you under 5' 2" lol.  The thing to watch out for is a draw in your bench above your knees.

On 5/7/2024 at 1:33 AM, ManSkirtBrew said:

More than enough. Here's mine at the height I work at. I think the working distance with the included 0.5x Barlow lens is about 9".
 

IMG_20240506_202446.thumb.jpg.20446ddc5d5ee704d6101f83393ea184.jpg

So yes, that halves the magnification. The full story is the objective lens goes from 0.7x to 4.5x. The eyepieces are 10x, giving you the advertised magnification of 7x-45x.

However the working distance is unacceptably short, so it comes with an 0.5x Barlow lens, reducing the magnification range to 3.5x-22.5x, but giving you a good working distance.

What I did was buy a pair of Extreme Widefield 20x Eyepieces for when I need more magnification. You keep your high working distance, but get your 45x magnification back, at the cost of some width of field.

image.png.175b5688e765095c043b7d92c1226f40.png

Whats your field of view with these please msb ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Whats your field of view with these please msb ?

At the lowest magnification, I can just get all of a normal wristwatch size movement in field. For some things it's too much magnification, but the nice thing about the eyepieces is they only take seconds to swap in and out.

I'm genuinely surprised I've never read about anyone else doing it, to be honest.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

I'm genuinely surprised I've never read about anyone else doing it, to be honest.

I think maybe we're all a bit dim @ManSkirtBrew 🤣

99% of the time I'm working with the 0.5X Barlow, so mags from 3.5X to 22.5X. When I need a close up of a pivot or jewel, I take the Barlow out, and even put in the 2X Barlow, but it's a nuisance.

So like you, I had that D'oh moment, why don't I just use 20X eyepieces (WF20X/10). They take seconds to change, and you keep the working distance. The only downsides are lower field of view, and less brightness.  

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

I think maybe we're all a bit dim @ManSkirtBrew 🤣

99% of the time I'm working with the 0.5X Barlow, so mags from 3.5X to 22.5X. When I need a close up of a pivot or jewel, I take the Barlow out, and even put in the 2X Barlow, but it's a nuisance.

So like you, I had that D'oh moment, why don't I just use 20X eyepieces (WF20X/10). They take seconds to change, and you keep the working distance. The only downsides are lower field of view, and less brightness.  

Does anyone use the x5 eyepieces,  when i use them on my different amscope , the magnification changes to x5 but the field of view remains exactly the same as the x10, so nothing gained. The optical lenses can't be swapped out or at least they are not available as far as i know. 

17153527086725632132864425902254.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • To be honest, they're not a good movement to have in a chronograph for several reasons. The first is the chronograph mechanism is a 'bolt on' module; If you look at the side of the watch case the crown won't be in line with the pushers, therefore only the branded company would have the ability to swap out the module because they aren't designed to be serviced and definitely not by an independent watchmaker. Secondly, the ETA 2892 A2 is a great movement, but when the chrono module is used with it it becomes pants, in my opinion/experience. So, going back to your watch. The problem isn't with the base movement, which is the 2892A2, as there would never be that amount of backlash/flutter in the gear train of that particular movement, it is with the chrono bolt on module that the problem lies and when the chrono sweep second hand is engaged the flutter of the second hand is remedied by the stability of the chronograph mechanism negating that flutter. Everything in the chronograph mechanism of that movement is powered by a wheel in the centre where the cannon pinion/driving wheel would normally be. I think it is a crappy design deliberately engineered to be disposable due to the time taken to service the module. Give me a 7750 any day!
    • Yeah not much going on in the town , Scarborough is a bit better,but the missus and me love York. Good antique shops there, The antiques center on stonegate has a good selection of vintage watches, top price though.
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 
    • Brid isn't what it used to be, I only really go to Morrisons in brid. I avoid the town. But Scarborough is nice! I don't mind a wander round the beach between jobs
    • I have had a few issues with my Orient Automatic crystal and bezel. The bezel came off with a case knife and I haven't been able to refit it. Doing a bit of research on here, I think that it is an arrangement where the crystal is snapped over a lip on the caseback and then the bezel is installed over the top like a tension ring. I have managed to crack the crystal trying various attempts to press it onto the case. Measuring the crystal with Vernier calipers, I think it is a Sternkreuz XS 314.171 but I can't correspond that to the reference/ case number on the caseback. I also measured the outer diameter of the lip on the case that it may fit over and this is 30.5mm, which is actually 0.7mm bigger than the static inner diameter. Is it likely that the crystal can be expanded enough to snap over that? The inner diameter of the bezel/ tension ring is 32.2mm which works with 31.4+0.7 = 32.1mm Does this sound correct? What method should I use to snap the crystal and then bezel into place? I have a cheap case back press with nylon dies but I managed to break the old one with this method.       
×
×
  • Create New...