Jump to content

Identifying watch for possible radioactive concern


Recommended Posts

Hi there - recently picked up this watch to practice on. Crossed my mind that I'm not sure how old it is, and if it's 60s or earlier might have radioactive lume? Don't have a Geiger counter and am hoping someone can identify and weigh in please. Dial says "Cornell", movement says "Shriro watch Inc", case back inside says "TK Co, made in France". Any info would be helpful and much appreciated please, thank you!

IMG_5211.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sometimes you can see a burn mark on the dial from hands that have stayed in one place for decades, which is a clincher, but I don't really see that here. 

An inexpensive detector could let you know for sure, but considering the dial/hand style and the darkened condition of the dots on the dial in the absence of any clear water damage, I'd give 90% likelihood that there is radium there.  Tritium is usually marked out on the dial, and although it moves to yellow and tan as it ages, it doesn't get as "toasty" as those dial spots based on what I've seen.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, Geotex said:

An inexpensive detector could let you know for sure

Definitely worthwhile, if you are working with old watches - just be sure it's an actual Geiger counter, not one of the vast range of scam/fake "Radiation detectors" on ebay & amazon etc. that detect RF or static electricity...

 

In the mean time, I'd put the dial and hands in zip bags & wipe down the work area with a damp cloth to pick up any dust, then discard the cloth.

The emitted radiation from radium lume is not normally harmful - but inhaling or ingesting a single particle of the material can cause serious long term harm, so do take care with it.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Thanks all. I had ordered a Geiger that's showing up today but was hoping someone might be able to identify the watch to help me get ahead of it, so thank you Geotex. I in no way planned or plan to risk my health over watches and will probably trash this to be safe, it just stupidly didn't register for me how old this watch could be before I had opened the thing up. Sticking to explicitly newer watches going forward.

 

The counter I ordered is a GQ GMC model, which I have seen mentioned and used by many people and seems to be legit. https://www.gqelectronicsllc.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5786

Edited by kr2
Adding info about Geiger counter purchased
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Well, Geiger counter showed up today and the dial and/or hands were extremely radioactive, reading quickly spiked from a baseline of 10-20 cpm to 100 and was still rising when I removed it. Trashed the whole thing. Thankfully nothing else outside the components was registering - work surface, tools, the paper I had used to clean off some components.... 

 

And now I have a Geiger counter to use to  check practice watches BEFORE disassembly

Edited by kr2
Typo
  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've also heard it called the "top side" and the dial side the "bottom side", which should make any non-repairer very confused. There are many examples and sometimes it comes down to personal preference. Personally, I like to say "dial train" whereas most other people would use the term "motion works".
    • Is magnetism such a major problem that we (as home hobbyists) need to spend $$$ on a fancy demagnetiser? I use one of the cheap blue Chinese demagnetisers (£10 from ebay). It works, and has never failed to demagnetise a movement, or my screwdrivers. Magnetometer - who needs one?  Take a very small screw. If it sticks to the clean part, it is magnetised 🤣
    • My overall preference is to use traditional names and terms, that became my habit when i was taught joinery by old boy chippies 2 generations older than me , that had their time in the 40's. But what i often do is adjust the names and terms i use according to who I'm talking with. Sometimes i will say trainside and occasionally watchmaker's side. I try to find a balance between accommodating other folk ( there's no point speaking a foreign language to someone who doesn't understand it ) and using a name that appears to me to be more relevant as to its use or description. But using the name lever can be quite confusing,  some watches might have parts that are also levers, release levers, which in effect is what the pallet fork is, an escapement release lever. 
    • Then put the case number in here https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/search-seiko-case-parts and it should give you the crown 
    • I come across to replace the crystal of a 7734 chronograph.  What make it special there a printed chapter ring  which fits inside the recess of crystal before inserting into the case. I am thinking of a high dome crystal such as Sternkreuz ATCH, fitting diameter OD332/ID320.  For this purpose, tension ring will be removed and fit in the chapter ring.  I understand the crystal size may not perfectly fit these two dimension.  Should aim to find the right ID, then OD can be grinded to reduce without much difficulty.  To find the right crystal, the easiest way is to get know of the OD/ID relationship of Sternkreuz ATCH/ATCG (otherwise the OD of the crystal and tension ring).  I hope you are able to help to minimize the trial and errors.
×
×
  • Create New...