Jump to content

Watch cleaning machine: What do I use a movement holder for?


Recommended Posts

I recently purchased an old Elma cleaning machine and received an unexpected accessory with it, besides the basket. I found out it is a movement holder and I also have an approximate idea how it works. The question is, what am I supposed to fit into it? Just the mainplate? Bridges, too?

2024-02-07 19.54.04.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These are made so that you can clean the entire movement(s) in one go, without taking it apart first, this assumes that the dirt/oil/debris etc  cannot hide in any covered areas, and that you can access all areas after to lubricate etc.. personally speaking I don't think they are very useful for most members on this forum.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Waggy said:

These are made so that you can clean the entire movement(s) in one go, without taking it apart first, this assumes that the dirt/oil/debris etc  cannot hide in any covered areas, and that you can access all areas after to lubricate etc.. personally speaking I don't think they are very useful for most members on this forum.

They were actually designed for one purpose but now they can have two purposes.

As you noted the watches cleaned entirely assembled if you are following a modern or some modern shops typically with Rolex for instance you will do a pre-cleaned cycle. This is where the watches left together the movement and its cleaned in that condition usually in a slightly shorter cycle the purpose of giving you a nice clean watch to evaluate.

But the real reason for this is it's a faster way to service a watch. At one time they would make a substance it went by the name miracle lube or one step. There were others is also a dual lube method that did the same thing. The basic principle is you clean the watch assembled that saves that pesky time of disassembling. As far as lubrication goes I really like miracle lube as I think the miracle it works But? So I finally got to see a material safety sheets for one of these substances and basically it was mineral oil which is a high-temperature oil in your last rinse. So your watches all nice and clean with no lubrication and the last rinse has the high temperature oil dissolved in the rinse itself so now you have oil covering everything but don't worry the magic of capillary action. As the solvent evaporates the lubrication will migrate to all of the crevices like where the pivots are. So now your watch is 100% lubricated and yes that was the selling point you can increase productivity by quite a huge percentage because you don't have to disassemble a you don't have to do manual lubrication. Obviously there's a reason why this no longer exists but it didn't exist at one time and it was very popular with production shops.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Actually one would not claim such thing  about the power reserve without check to confirm this, but if any difference, it will be verry small.
    • Another question if I may. When you guys buy watch lots are you buying a mix of mechanical and quartz as well? Most of the job lots I am finding (all overseas) are a mix. If they are all mechanical, it is generally just movements with no cases. I am not at the point where I can identify movements by just viewing them so I'm not inclined to buy a bunch of stuff which will just end up lying around. Is anyone able to successfully move any of the watches they save on to someone else? I can't see a viable market in Australia for refurbished watches. Most people I have seen at work only have a watch if it counts their steps, answers their phone and makes the coffee. I'll admit it, I have a super cheap smartwatch on my wrist. Will I buy another one when it quits? Doubt it. I don't know if I would even bother with a pedometer. Heart rate? And do what with all the data? Blood pressure? Never been right since I got the watch. Sleep? If I can't work out that I'm not getting enough, I need to have a serious talk with myself. I think I'll go back to my Seiko and just make myself stay active.
    • I suppose this fits "best" in this forum 😃 Im looking for some wall 'art' that doubles as a reference. Specifically Id like to find an ETA 28xx or Sellita exploded movement view. 2824/2836 would be ideal. Have any of you seen/found such a thing - there seem to be a lot of these for specialized movements, and none of them ready to print or to be had as a poster. Why help is appreciated.
    • The diameter is that of the ring - afaik, will have to look it up. “Wiggle room“ doesn‘t matter as long as the spring length is in the ball park.  Essential sizes of a mainspring are thickness, width and length. Diameter is just a hint if you can push into the barrel directly or will need a winder, it is no property of the spring. Frank
×
×
  • Create New...