Jump to content

Balance staff: is this a decent quality?


Recommended Posts

I‘m going to replace the balance staff of a Russian pocket watch (Molnia 3602). Because it is the first time I purchase a balance staff as a spare part I am not sure about the finishing quality to be expected. Here are some pictures from what I got (ebay, „NOS“). Is this a decent quality for such an item or is it chunk? Your educated comments are highly appreciated.

IMG_8382.jpeg.d4c511f608ce17f8767d40b7de3fabdb.jpeg

IMG_8378.jpeg.0b5ffe5d375e9f2544671e99abfa8d95.jpeg

 

Edited by Kalanag
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Kalanag changed the title to Balance staff: is this a decent quality?
2 hours ago, Kalanag said:

I‘m going to replace the balance staff of a Russian pocket watch (Molnia 3602). Because it is the first time I purchase a balance staff as a spare part I am not sure about the finishing quality to be expected. Here are some pictures from what I got (ebay, „NOS“). Is this a decent quality for such an item or is it chunk? Your educated comments are highly appreciated.

IMG_8382.jpeg.d4c511f608ce17f8767d40b7de3fabdb.jpeg

IMG_8378.jpeg.0b5ffe5d375e9f2544671e99abfa8d95.jpeg

 

The hub looks a bit rough and the pivot doesn't seem particularly polished but that might just be because the photographer seems to have taken the picture with a potato 🥔😉 . The rivet still looks like it has its shape though.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 12/16/2023 at 5:02 PM, CYCLOPS said:

you should be able to use after clean-up in lathe as long as the hub fits the balance wheel.....

Meanwhile I found some time to investigate the dimensions of the new staff.

- The pivots fit the jewel holes

- The end shake is fine

- The wheel hub fits the wheel diameter

BUT

- The double roller ID is 0,2mm smaller than the staff‘s OD (0,4 vs. 0,6mm) 🤨

Not having a lathe, what would you folks do?

Edited by Kalanag
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Kalanag said:

Meanwhile I found some time to investigate the dimensions of the new staff.

- The pivots fit the jewel holes

- The end shake is fine

- The wheel hub fits the wheel diameter

BUT

- The double roller ID is 0,2mm smaller than the staff‘s OD (0,4 vs. 0,6mm) 🤨

Not having a lathe, what would you folks do?

Jacot ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Kalanag said:

I should have mentioned that I don‘t have a Jacot tool.

Ronda catalog is showing the roller table diameter on staff as 56 maybe roller is too small . Could you measure on a reamer where you need to be with the size ? Stop short and finish with  a smoothing broach.  Reducing the staff would feel safer for me and normally easier to replace if things go wrong . 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Kalanag said:

Well, there seems to be no other option than purchasing a reamer that I will never need again. I‘m not happy with this idea (yet).

Can a cutting broach do the job?

Well I’ll throw tuppence in the pot, the knowledgeable folks will hopefully chime in. A cutting broach is basically a reamer with a taper, I would think this would be what you would want for this but I may be wrong. A reamer is parallel and would be more for making a true hole. Saying that I think there are also tapered reamers kicking about for things like morse tapers.

 

Tom

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Kalanag said:

Well, there seems to be no other option than purchasing a reamer that I will never need again. I‘m not happy with this idea (yet).

Can a cutting broach do the job?

I think that is what nev was meaning, reamer just being another term. I wouldn't be too happy either. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Kalanag said:

Well, there seems to be no other option than purchasing a reamer that I will never need again. I‘m not happy with this idea (yet).

Can a cutting broach do the job?

Do you have smoothing broaches that you can mark up the diameter on, so you have a gauge to work to. I do this when opening up a barrel hole so i know when to stop.

4 minutes ago, nevenbekriev said:

Yes, my english doesn't make difference between reamer and cutting broach. I try to improve it here...

Its ok nev those 2 terms are more or less interchangeable where ever you come from.  Reamers are often associated with their use in jewelling tools but some people also do call them broaches . Broaching and reaming mean the same, to open up a hole. Broaching a subject would be to open up a discussion usually a difficult one.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

the roller or staff needs to have some taper to fit tight, you will use tapered reamers again and again in the future I'm sure, I don't know how you will hold the roller to do this maybe a pinvise.....be careful not to remove too much and hopefully the hole will not get out of round

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got this set of carb jet broaches (0,4 - 1,6mm) for just €9,- (shipping included). They worked well for the cutting. After finishing with a smoothing broach the result is fine 🙂

IMG_8721.thumb.jpeg.1eb1eca383c4b786ee810ff3b226bf09.jpeg

Edited by Kalanag
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I’ve been working on a 7750 with some success - so far not broken or lost anything and have the base movement up and running well. I’ve reassembled the chronograph mechanism and I have a problem with the minute recording. The finger on the centre wheel is at the wrong angle - it hits the minute driving wheel and the watch stops, unless I give a little nudge and then it carries on.    The tech sheet says to check for 0.02mm clearance (figure B) which I haven’t got. Can I adjust the finger on the chrono wheel, or should I get a replacement? Is there anything else to consider?
    • Thanks for the clear explanation.  
    • Yesterday a Rolex cal. 3135 landed in my hands housed in a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date reference 15200. Having analysed its running (fully wound) using @praezis excellent PCTM software, nothing is alarming or acute, nevertheless, my conclusion is that it's up for and could benefit from a service. I'd like to know if someone has a different opinion. Pictures to follow... However, what is alarming is that the rotor is loose, and unfortunately, I think it's pretty bad as the rotor won't even oscillate when the watch is in a dial-down position and gently shaken.  It also makes an unpleasant metallic sound when the rotor is spinning, so I hope it hasn't caused too much damage. Unfortunately, I have not been able to confirm this visually as I do not have the correct tool to open the case back and do not want to take chances with my JAXA opener. No doubt a repair is needed, and if a repair is done a service should of course be done as well. I guess I just answered my question 🤨 After reading this thread started by @dibs1, I guess that the rotor axle is worn out and needs to be replaced. dibs1, you mention that you replaced it "using the proper staking punch". It would be interesting if you (or someone else!) could tell us a bit more about how that operation is done. I also read somewhere that "There is a brass 'bearing' or similar, in the movement that wears out and starts to leave brass shavings in the surrounding around". I have no doubt that I would be able to carry out a service but I feel a little unsure about how advanced the rotor repair is and what tools are required. So any handy tips would be greatly appreciated!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Hello, I am French and Canadian, based in Montreal for 11 years now. I am a watch addict, specially vintage watches or watches with an history. I have always been fascinated by the ingenuity of watch movements and I have decided recently to learn more about them by taking Mark's courses on watchfix.com I will certainly learn a lot from you all, I am therefore looking forward to participating in this forum.
×
×
  • Create New...