Jump to content

Removing dial from Omega Constellation Cal. 654


Recommended Posts

I am attempting to remove the dial from an Omega Constellation with the Cal. 654 movement. I have worked on a few Cal. 650 series movements before, but they all had dial screws to remove the dial. This one appears to have a friction fit dial, but I can't seem to get it off. I've tried prying it and it seems to have moved a little, but I'm concerned that I might bend the dial if I keep going. Is there something I'm missing?

PXL_20231111_214914200.jpg

PXL_20231111_214935336.jpg

PXL_20231111_214957989.jpg

PXL_20231111_215010288.jpg

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Missing  dial feet screws , so feet or the dial plate itself  might  have been glued to the mainplate.

Try inserting a safety razor blade between dial and mainplate plate, work your way around  the dial to cut into any glue which might be sticking to back of the dial plate.

once you are sure dial plate has seperated,  push on the free end of each dial feet a bit at a time.

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

I don't seem to be finding any information on a caliber 654? On the other hand if we swap the numbers around 564  that does have dial screws.

Yeah, my bad I got the numbers mixed up. It is a 564. It's probably glued down like Nucejoe said. I'll try my best to get it off, hopefully without damaging it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, MarcusD said:

Yeah, my bad I got the numbers mixed up. It is a 564. It's probably glued down like Nucejoe said. I'll try my best to get it off, hopefully without damaging it. 

 Dr ranfft shows a picture of 564 with the date disc, you don't want the  razor to hit the disc. 

Push on the free end of dial foot   DO NOT PRY  the dial plate.

 

Good luck

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Watch this video, hard to see what he's doing but the screwdriver is not at 90⁰ to the movement. 

Now that we have the correct movement number which we do know has dial screws here's what he's referring to so one of the dial screws is found. Unfortunately these gifts over the other one but still now we know where it is

image.png.5ead9a0b4ffd37c08480a489b3308d62.png

So yes a lot of the time style screws are found in notches and go in at a angle especially with dials that have calendar mechanisms  or the dial feet have to be on the very edge as there's no place else to put them with calendar discs etc.

Then somebody else servicing a watch unfortunately skips over things like the dial...But we can also look at his movement pictures and based on the video image above  we can make a wild guess of this is where one of the dial feet screw is. So once you grasp where that one is the other one should be easy to find..

image.png.d4ee0090ad1ac56fddedfcf4881be291.png

https://watchguy.co.uk/service-omega-constellation-calibre-564/

Okay I will make a wild guess if you look at where the dial screwed those then you can see the whole look dial foot was into and it has a little bit of a taper so the flick will go in versus having just a straight hole as there's quite a few holes on the plate. So my guess is this is where the other dial foot is  and unfortunately at all the pictures above were looking at the wrong angle we really can't see this

image.png.1c93ceb6078fa6ec5acb08a94fd1d3e8.png

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, it turns out I'm just really stupid and didn't see where the dial screws were. JohnR725 is right about the placement. Luckily I realized this before I started prying on the dial. I feel especially stupid because I have worked on a 564 movement before so I should have known where they were. Oh well, I won't make that mistake again. Thanks for the help everyone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • These are the places where I oiled with HP 1300...  These are the places where I oiled with HP 1300...  I can see that the cannon pinion is moving as it should once I installed the pallet fork. I created a small video but was not able to upload it. It is a mov file type. I need now to source a GR4014X mainspring, a stop ever #9433 and both calendar disc as the days/dates are peeling out... This is the mido watch which holds the ETA Movement.... I just want to thanks all of you guys for your help, specially @eccentric59 who nailed it! So, I would consider this case as closed unless of course any question from any of you... Best regards Fernando     I could not download the file... I will tray to located. Many thanks. 
    • Thanks a lot everyone!  I'll update you as soon as a final decision has been made by my friend (and depending on her decision, what I may find inside). 
    • Thanks Marc, clearly I have a lot to learn about metallurgy. I’d expect the cutting of tool or spring steel to be a lot harder to cut into a precise shape- I expect I’d have to anneal it first? 
    • Unfortunately if you have used mild steel you will have little hope of hardening and tempering it, it simply doesn't contain enough carbon. You need to use a steel with a higher carbon content like tool steel or spring steel. One good source for this is engineers feeler gauges which can be picked up relatively inexpensively and provide a range of thicknesses of material. this will then harden and temper in pretty much the way you have described.
    • Thanks for this excellent tutorial and very fine illustrations @Jon! Really first class! 👍 I noticed that your image was a bit too small to read with ease, so here's a larger copy of it. I summarized @nickelsilver's method for adjusting beat errors to the following, but you can find all the info in the thread I linked to: “For everyday work, from the smallest ladies’ movements to marine chronometer, I set the balance with the cock on a bench block so the roller table is in a hole, balance on the block. Lift up the cock and move it over- not flipping it, just moving laterally, until I can see the slot in the hairspring collet, get in there and adjust (for tiny watches this is usually with an oiler, larger, a small screwdriver). Go back in the watch and check on the machine. I hold a balance arm of the rim with tweezers while moving the collet.”    
×
×
  • Create New...