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Posted

I serviced a ball watch using an eta 2824-2 movement. When I put back together the assembly where all the winding, date set and time set is, the lever doesn't slide the one pinion back all the way to wind the watch. Also the rotor rubs the screw that hold the balance assembly. Ugh!!

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Posted

The set lever has jumped out of its groove...either slipped out when you put in the stem or incorrectly assembled in the first place.

I've heard that if you assemble it and then put it in hand-setting position before you remove the stem helps on reassembly.

For the balance clock screw you be probably got the wrong screw in there... unscrew the other screws to find the correct one.

Anil

Posted

I'm with Steven on the winding/ setting... The spring needs tension on it to work..

As for as the rotor rubbing the balance screw .....I'm thinking you may have the wrong screw in it?? ( balance).

Let us know when you figure it out.. Interesting !

Posted

It was a wrong screw in the balance. I always keep the screws with there part and somehow got it mixed up. Anyway the screw was longer and it was going all the way through and jamming the lever set assembly. Everything perfect now. Thx for all the replies.

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    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
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