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Whilst you could go ahead and use the 11DP movement, the ST36 has the advantage of being larger and therefore easier to work on. It will also be running quite well when it arrives, so you know any decrease in performance after you’ve serviced it is down to you. If you do a great job servicing it, the ST36 will be running even better than it did initially. If the 11DP doesn’t run well after you service it, it’s hard for a beginner to know if this is due to issues with the movement or their technique. The iPhone I have (iPhone 13) is more than adequate to capture clear, detailed images of watch parts and would be fine for keeping a visual record of the disassembly. If your iPhone is not up to the task, consider looking at the cheaper digital microscopes from China. They have an LCD screen to show the field of view and can capture still images and some capture video too. There is a slight lag between the workpiece and the image on the screen, which makes them unsuitable as a microscope to work through, but for inspection purposes and capturing step by step images of the disassembly they will work well. In terms of keeping parts and screws sorted, I suggest a plastic storage box with lots of small compartments. Some fishing tackle boxes would be suitable. Once you’ve removed for example the balance cock, put the screw that held it down into the neighboring compartment. For the other bridges and cocks, put each in a separate compartment along with the screws that belong with it. I suggested a separate compartment for the balance cock screw because you want to keep all loose parts away from the hairspring. Put the ratchet wheel and its screw in a compartment, the crown wheel and screw in another compartment and so on. Pallet fork cock/bridge and screw(s) in another compartment etc. You can even put a bit of paper with a description of the part into each compartment. You can also write on the compartment or lid with a marker and (usually) remove the writing afterwards with an alcohol swab. As you gain experience you’ll find you get more comfortable grouping more parts together in a single compartment without losing track of where they go. Another alternative is to make a screw holder for the movement from a disk of wood or metal. You need one for each side of the movement. Sketch out the movement bridges and screw locations on the disk and drill a small hole in each location. Place each screw into its corresponding hole as you remove it from the movement. These screw holders were sold by watch material houses in the past and do turn up on eBay from time to time. Until you are ready to make the step up to a stereomicroscope, should you eventually choose to, a 5x, 10x and 20x loupe should be enough. Good lighting is also very important. Hope that helps, Mark -
Ok the time grapher for a few positions is as follows. Dial down first Dial up second Crown up third Crown down fourth -
Several months back I came across this K&D 600 Series staking set from an old jewelry store that no longer services watches. I finally got around to restoring it. The case top had a crack running through it, by the handle. I cut that part off and replaced it with a new piece of mahogany. Sanded and stained the wood. Cleaned up the hardware. De-rusted all of the stakes, stumps, etc. and cleaned and lightly oiled them. Disassembled the frame to clean, lubricated and re-blued some of the parts. It turned out better than I expected. -
With vintage sets, rust can be an issue or damage from handling or shipping. After derusting the pushers/stumps, there can be pits that remain. Now that I have finished restoring my staking set, I'll turn my attention to my Seitz set. It had some rusting to it when I got it. I have all of the pieces now derusted, cleaned and lightly oiled. Now I need to examine the condition of the pusher tips and see if any need to be dressed.
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