Identifying a movement?
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Yes, I believe its wound. I believe someone else was inside this watch before me. Which leads me to another question which is how do you know if a part looks correct if you have no experience with a certain movement before. How would I be able to tell if the hacking lever was bent or not without prior experience? This would go with any part for that matter. The keyless works have many parts with many bends in them. Could balance stones being placed upside down cause this issue?
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By nickelsilver · Posted
The way the hairspring is sitting I wouldn't be surprised if the first coil is touching the stud when running. Easy 60+ seconds. -
Thanks to both of you. I had not yet grasped that removing weight was another regulation technique. Either trying to re-pin the hairspring or removing weight from the balance, I'd estimate about a 50% chance of messing it up. I'm experienced under a microscope, but new to watches, and that hairspring is much more fragile than any surface mount soldering I've done. I had nearly decided to just live with the deviation when I noticed it stopped running at all after about 4 hours. There was still wind in the mainspring, and giving the movement a small shake got it running again for a short amount of time. I guess I'm digging back in to figure out what's causing that.
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By HectorLooi · Posted
I have one of these tools. Used it a couple of times and didn't like it. The problem is that when the power is dialed up high enough to pop the cover off, the cover usually flies across the room and then rolls under some furniture. The blade then continues to move forward due to the momentum and the hardened blade then punches a line into the lip of the case. This line would affect the seal of the gasket, making the case non-waterproof anymore. I've switched to using a Seiko-style case knife and find that this design allows the user to exert more wedging force due to using a pushing action. Even very tight casebacks can be popped off with this tool. -
I agree with @Jon, the Tissot 79x are pretty straight forward and well-designed movements. If you can handle Seikos, you can handle this one, too. Unless you have never done any calendar works. If you want to go down this route, you are lucky in the sense that the mainspring barrel is easily accessible WITHOUT removing the train wheels/bridge (you could maybe even leave the balance on, but then take extra care). See below. When you get to that point, make sure you gently "shake out" the barrel instead of roughly yanking it out and potentially bending the center wheel. You might also find this thread useful (783 is the 784 without calendar):
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