Jump to content

Key Wind Pocket Watch Won't Stay Wound


Recommended Posts

I recently acquired an old Swiss key wind pocket watch (G. Juvet Locle), and it won't hold a wind. When I use the key to turn the barrel, I don't hear the click, and it seems that the click doesn't hold the barrel. I have worked on several later model (non-key wind) pocket watches, but this is the first key wind, and I'm not familiar with the setup of the barrel and click. I've attached some pictures, and wonder if someone might take a look and see whether the click spring looks broken, or if there is something missing from the bottom of the barrel. I came across a picture of a similar barrel on the forum, and I think there may be a five-sided gear and screw missing from the bottom of the barrel (the last pic is one I found on a different forum post that seems like it may be the missing gear from the bottom). 

Thoughts?

PXL_20230423_024355753.jpg

PXL_20230423_031403304.jpg

PXL_20230423_031352315.jpg

DSC01719.JPG.ab12b3bf746b69a6d2c886d07872ba3b.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Following.  I've had to work on key-winders too.

I've been looking closely at that picture and, even though it is rather inconclusive, I'd still say there could be some wear; maybe on the ratchet teeth as well.  But that is speculation right now, I think.
However, first, I would advise clean it all up spotlessly, inspect each part with a loupe or similar, put all the winding train back together and oil the requisite parts, and then try it and see how it works.  Maybe you'll be lucky and it'll just have a clump of old dirt binding the click and keeping it from engaging fully.  Maybe just a burr causing drag.  Maybe something simple and easy.
Even if not, it is always easier to diagnose clean parts.  I'm curious now to see what the problem will turn out to be.  Good luck there!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you both for your replies! The Geneva stop-work is so awesome, and I am consistently amazed at the ingenuity shown at such a minute level. And after reading several opinions, it looks like the watch will run just fine without the stop-work, so one less part to source.

I was able to run the watch through a cleaning cycle this afternoon and partially reassemble it and that did indeed make it much easier to see what was going on. It appears there are multiple issues with the click mechanism. As you can see from the pics, the ratchet wheel looks worn and is even missing a tooth or two near the click. I think I can still make it work with 23 out of 25 teeth working (this is just a personal project watch at this point).

Additionally, the click spring didn't want to hold the click against the ratchet wheel and when I attempted to move it slightly to test its springiness (is that a word?), it cracked. You can see in the pic with the oiler pointing at the hairline crack, and after I pushed it slightly, it came completely apart. I plan to attempt to fashion a replacement spring with stiff piano wire and see if it will work. 

PXL_20230423_210102918.jpg

PXL_20230423_210050892.jpg

PXL_20230423_210227437.jpg

PXL_20230423_210413050.jpg

Edited by mdimbler
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I ended up fashioning a replacement spring (see pic) which seems to be working well. It ran fine all night. I used piano wire (0.02"), and it took three attempts at shaping and cutting it down, but I finally got it. We shall see how long it holds up!

PXL_20230508_045108965.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • @HectorLooimakes an excellent point, the degree should be brilliant and more than useful but if it's not recognised, then the job options are limited.  You need to find out how many companies are willing to accept Mechrotronics. 
    • Hi other than testing the coil without the proper tools it will be difficult.  If you +an rig up an external supply and attach it to the cut block you may be able to pick up the pulses on the chip if not on the coil. i have attached the parts sheet for the watch 9362 which gives you the part number of the cut board assembly, whether this part is still available or not , who knows. ETA 9360, 9361, 9362.pdf
    • Hi and welcome. First of all, check the power reserve. If the watch is runing, this means the spring is attached to the barrel arbor. If there is no end of winding, this probably means that the spring is not attached to the barreland it's outer end is slipping. In such case, the watch will run, but the power reserve will be small - about several hours
    • Hi welcome to the forum. One can only reiterate the diagnosis already made by clockboy mainspring problem. But before tearing it to pieces take a little time to read the attached file to acquaint yourself with all the various parts. TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf
    • We think about these preps as "one-dips" partly because they are terrific solvents but also because the parts they are used on are often cleaner in general than many other parts. But old oils petrify, and even something like B-Dip can't clean up over-soiled parts without some extra effort, as mentioned above. There is an intermediate step during cleaning where the solvent can partially dissolve tarry residues so they have a more liquid varnish-like consistency, and that could well be what you are seeing on the coils after two washes. I wouldn't worry that your B-Dip was contaminated before you used it on this hairspring, but it I wouldn't re-use that aliquot AFTER this cleaning!
×
×
  • Create New...