Jump to content

Replacement parts for Jaeger Lecoultre 814 Memovox


Recommended Posts

I am working on a really nice JLC Memovox with a calibre 814. Everything with the movement is now in working order but I am having trouble with the clutch wheel ( part 407-7407). I noticed that some of the teeth on the side facing into the centre of the watch had broken off. 1 or 2 teeth. It is therefore slipping sometimes and make the action not so smooth. I am located in Europe and I am having an incredibly hard time finding a replacement for an ok price. I found one in America for like 250 USD incl shipping, customs etc...

Does anyone know of any substitute or where I can find such a part?

Thanks(:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a weak point on these, and there is also often wear at the pivot point of the intermediate pinion that the clutch engages when time setting. The wear makes hand setting hard, even with light CP friction, so replacement might only be a short term fix. In some cases switching that part from the time to the alarm setting stem will get you along, but if you have teeth broken (sometimes they are just very worn) yes you will need a new one. Sorry I don't have any sources.

 

Correcting the above wear requires some faceplate work in the lathe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your answer. Like you said, a replacement part is likely merely a short term fix to the problem. I managed to source one miraculously right after I posted this thread. However, the time setting is still not perfectly smooth. The teeth on the clutch wheel themselves look very good but they are still slipping so I imagine there are some other issues involved too that you mentioned. 

What I understand from your reply is that the post on the mainplate which the wheel that engages with the clutch wheel is worn and needs fixing. Is this correct?

Unfortunately, I don't have a lathe at hand. Is there any other way to approach the issue?

Once again, huge thanks for the help(:

this is what it looks like (without the "setting lever springs" attached). As can be seen, very shallow engagement. 

IMG-1220.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, you can see the wear in the photo (and it may be worse than the photo indicates). There's no good way to repair that aside from centering up that post in a faceplate in the lathe*, turning it down a bit, and fitting a sleeve. I usually make the sleeve from beryllium copper, which wears much longer than the original brass.

 

In the meantime I would use grease there, like 9501 or 9504.

 

*And centering a part like that is 1000x easier with something like a tailstock microscope.

 

 

memovox wear.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

Yes, you can see the wear in the photo (and it may be worse than the photo indicates). There's no good way to repair that aside from centering up that post in a faceplate in the lathe*, turning it down a bit, and fitting a sleeve. I usually make the sleeve from beryllium copper, which wears much longer than the original brass.

 

In the meantime I would use grease there, like 9501 or 9504.

 

*And centering a part like that is 1000x easier with something like a tailstock microscope.

 

 

memovox wear.jpg

I am currently using 9504 on it but there is definitely some slack in the fit. It certainly is slightly worse than what the photo depicts. 
 

So since I don't have a lathe at the moment I suppose there's not really much I can do. I really wouldn't want to sell it in this condition and setting the time with this issue would surely cause a lot of unnecessary wear. Perhaps I'll have to wait until I get me a lathe...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
    • Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
×
×
  • Create New...