Jump to content

Refurbished motor--right in the middle of a watch cleaning!


Recommended Posts

I was cleaning a watch today.  Had already done the clean stage and had started the rinse...bam!  The motor quit.

So, for the next two hours, I was refurbishing this motor.  It had been hacked by earlier watchmakers...found a lousy solder joint that finally said "No more."

I took the opportunity to do a thorough cleaning and rewiring.

Working now.

I have another L&R that has a motor problem...similar motor...so this was a good trial run to fixing it.

2022-11-28 19_12_14-20221128_190731.jpg ‎- Photos.png

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I sort of feel bad, but sort of not!!!  I purchased an L&R machine from @LittleWatchShopthe other day, which is currently in the hands of UPS.  I get a text from him saying 'The day I ship your machine, my cleaning machine dies!".   I sort of felt bad until he told me later that he got his fixed.  LWS is a man of many talents it seems!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just opened up the other non-functioning motor. Other than the fact that the brush mount was broken, the motor works.  Most likely, I can 3D print another mount.  But the wiring must be replaced.  These old motors are very robust, but wiring in the 50s was not durable.  Insulation cracks and crumbles.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/29/2022 at 11:29 AM, LittleWatchShop said:

I just opened up the other non-functioning motor. Other than the fact that the brush mount was broken, the motor works.  Most likely, I can 3D print another mount.  But the wiring must be replaced.  These old motors are very robust, but wiring in the 50s was not durable.  Insulation cracks and crumbles.

Progress.  I disassembled the motor, cleaned it, oiled the bearings, and re-wired it.  The housing for one of the brushes was busted, so I 3D printed a threaded cover and a screw that functions very nearly like the original.  I tested the motor and it works.  Now to rebuild the rest of the machine.

2022-11-30 12_59_29-20221130_071257.jpg ‎- Photos.png

2022-11-30 12_58_48-20221130_125305.jpg ‎- Photos.png

Edited by LittleWatchShop
Not->>Now
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I snagged this Hamilton Beach mixer motor off ebay for a good price...for a backup if needed for future cleaner repairs.  It was missing the brushes that are round.  I could not find any, but I did find square ones where the dimension of the side was equal to the diameter I needed, so I bought four sets for cheap.

Then I turned them on the lathe.  I was surprised at how well they turned out.

I do not have the cap screws, but I assembled the motor anyway (had to rewire it) and held the brushes in with rodico.  The motor works.  Now to solve the cap screw issue.

2022-12-27 11_30_05-Window.png

2022-12-27 11_30_19-Window.png

Edited by LittleWatchShop
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
    • When building a new Watch I have tended to use a file to remove the remnants of dial feet that are not needed as many dials come with four feet to accomodate different movements, but this can be a bit messy so now I use this with a great deal more precision as you can use an appropriate bit for the job and keep it very localised.      
×
×
  • Create New...