Jump to content

Bifora Automatic 23 Jewels - remove movement from case


Recommended Posts

Today I started working on a Bifora Automatic, but I was unable to remove the movement form the casing. I did not see any case screws or clamps and I was not able to find another way to open the case further. I can remove the winding stem but not all the way. The opening in the side of the case seems not to be big enough.

This is the first time for me with this specific watch and for sure all the experts here can point me to the right direction. Do you have further ideas of how to open the case? Please help.

Here are some pictures. Hopefully you can help.

Unbenanntes Bild1.jpg

Unbenanntes Bild2.jpg

Unbenanntes Bild3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like it's a front loader - i.e. has to be removed from the front.

Have a close look at the front bezel, there should be a small gap in it somewhere where you can remove it. 

The stem should be removeable. Do you know the movement number? 

Can you give better pics of the movement with more light !

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a lot of problems with recognizing these front loaders. Perhaps you can find the right gap to apply preassure? Without experience or knowledge I am afraid to break something. Here are pictures of the side and better pictures of the movement and a picture of the stem as far as it will go. A movement number I was not able to find. Maybe under the weight from the automatic?

Thank you so much for your help.

IMG_3399_1.JPG

IMG_3398_1.JPG

IMG_3397_1.JPG

IMG_3395_1.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, Lomingen said:

I had a lot of problems with recognizing these front loaders. 

The clue is : if the dial is bigger than the hole in the back of the case, it can't come out that way !

I can't see any gap under the bezel on the crown side, have a look between the lugs. 

Are there any letters under the balance wheel ?

To remove the stem, try unscrewing this screw about 2 turns.

image.png.0b7de347123ddd38c31cb94aae50116c.png

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried the screw but it did not help. The stem still goes only that far.

Some other idea: Could it be that the ring on the outside should be removed? I marked int blue in the picture. It looks like the red gap is not closed under the stem and it is not alligned with the hole in the case. Could it be that this ring should come out on the movement side and free the movement as well?

I have not heard of a case like that but it very much looks like. At the moment I cannot move this ring at all but before trying harder I ask. Still way to afraid of breaking something. 

Unbenanntes Bild.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hadn't noticed the ring.  Once the stem is removed, the movement and ring should come out the back. 

The stem looks almost out, but corroded, and possibly bent.  Is it only corrosion stopping it coming out ?

Try turning and jiggling it as you pull. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Usually the coiled spring contacts the piezo sounder and the finger spring is the ground.
    • So I checked with my friendly local lab supplier and they can supply the following in 2.5 lt bottles: Tetrachloroethylene (B-Dip) - approx £65 Trichloroethylene (one-dip) - approx £43 n-Heptane 99% (Essence of Renata) - approx £35 Hexane - approx £45 I can't import or buy locally the 'real' products, hence the raw chemicals above. What do you think would be my best option? I'm edging towards Trichloroethylene - I know there are greater health risks, but given the very small quantities used for each treatment and 99.99% of the time it will be sealed in a jar, I think any risk is vanishingly small? This is mainly due to its assumed superior cleaning properties, or from the experience of this group, is the extra cleaning noticeable compared to its safer alternatives?
    • Unfortunately after much investigation, apparently the coil has been discontinued! Shall I get my service guy to try the solder or the conductive paint? 🎨 Final recommendation please🙏
    • Here are the pics of the bridge. Looks correct, but as soon as I screw on the rotor, the watch stops. Video here: https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArG5E62RGctxjokY5ws85BzuJLVakA   Pics. Might have figured it out. I have been working on this watch for a while and since I got it as a non runner in a terrible shape, there was no guarantee that parts were proper. I think the main screw that was used on the rotor was too long, so it was stopping the main train. As soon as I fished out a much shorter and larger headed screw, things were good again. Please celebrate with me.  
    • One-dip or naphtha should be safe, but are you sure it isn't magnetized?  I would also check that.  Although, if that balance is from an Elgin 760 0r 761, I would think it would have a hairspring of non-magnetic alloy.
×
×
  • Create New...