Jump to content

Main Spring barrel Question


Recommended Posts

Hello, 👋

I've gathered information about automatic main spring barrel walls and i know what lube is needed for them (8217, 9500) braking grease however I currently only have these: Moebius 9415, 9010, D5 and Molykote Dx paste the basic oils and grease for beginner now is it really necessary to have the other braking grease at the moment as i dont know if i can sell another kidney for more grease 😄 is it maybe viable to use any of the ones i currently have ?

Thanks !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunatly the OP has financial constraints and is/was looking to make use of what he has not shelling out for another expensive product.       Kulber P125 was discussed on the nawcc site, and Henry B Freid used graphite / oil paste , so there are vairied alteratives on the market.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Kalanag said:

Are you sure? Kluber is graphite filled and a dedicated breaking grease. DX is PTFE filled and not adverticed as breaking grease.

I am also confused here. the Kluber is a black really sticky substance that if you use too much it has too much breaking and is very bad.The DX is actually rated as a lubricant for very high pressure applications and I wouldn't consider it a breaking grease at all. So I'm a bit confused for the same reason.

20 hours ago, TadasJ said:

grease for beginner now is it really necessary to have the other braking grease at the moment as i dont know if i can sell another kidney for more grease 

I really wish it was this simple we would all be happy to have one bottle of oil for everything it would make things so much nicer unfortunately it doesn't work that way I have a interesting video for you

the problem with the video is it conflicts with the theme of this discussion, The wrong lubricant will lead to the barrel destruction. The wrong lubricant if the mainspring doesn't slip leads to timing issues which probably be acceptable on a cost basis in other words does the watch have to really keep time versus how many kidneys you have to donate. You know in some countries you wouldn't have to use your kidney just steal one from somebody else I've heard that's a thing.

the bad of the video is it explains consequences of the wrong lubricant. If your mainspring doesn't slip as you can see in the video you will have timing issues. If you go the other direction something that's too slippery the mainspring may not have enough power at all to run the watch. probably if you keep it on your wrist you'll be okay just depends on how easily it slips

Then at about three minutes we get the interesting aspect. not only do you have to have the right lubricant but how it's applied is important. For instance in the video if this was Kluber and you apply as much as he's doing I don't think the mainspring would slip at all well it was slept but it be really really hard.
 

16 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Although Rolex and brietling stopped using it because it dirtied the cleaning fluid

the Rolex lubricant is called TEPA the reference I'm looking at indicates it's not of the same color as the DX which makes me suspect it's not the same thing. but breaking grease does have to have a grease characteristic to keep the barrel wall from disintegrating. Which makes me suspect that probably uses Teflon so it is a breaking grease with a Teflon lubricant.

https://youtu.be/7KNTrHVD088

20 hours ago, TadasJ said:

Moebius 9415, 9010, D5 and Molykote Dx paste

learning watch repair can be interesting thing that requires a lot of practice. But maybe it also requires some experimentation and this is a multiple-choice question so I'm will vote for the DX as the others are totally unsuitable as they would have zero breaking effect at all. So let's try the DX and see what happens.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Kluber P125 and Molykote DX are essentially the same thing

16 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Although Rolex and brietling stopped using it because it dirtied the cleaning fluid not because of any other reasons so I guess its safe to use

I have never considered Moly to be a braking grease, nor can I remember ever having seen it being recommended for this application on any sheet including Rolex - or at least I have most of the Rolex service sheets and can't remember seeing it. Kluber 125 is my go-to now but sparingly applied, I've seen it really being piled on in certain Instagram posts in the past 😟.

To the OP - my two cents: I recommend grabbing some Kluber or 8217 if you're going to be working on any number of automatic movements - it will definitely improve performance and give you peace of mind that you have done a good job.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Even for myself who only started getting into watch repair/servicing during COVID I have seen a huge jump in watch prices - we have a 404 channel on this forum. When I started you could relatively easily find a watch on eBay to restore and put onto the channel, however this is now almost impossible and the only feasible solution is to buy a job lot with an average price <4.04. Even watches sold for parts/spares are 3 or four times the price of only a few years ago. Why - Either Demand must have increased in order to push up the price, or supply is reduced. I think it is a little of both, I think that most watches in the UK/US may have been picked over, which agrees with most of what @Neverenoughwatches says so supply of all kinds of vintage watches, including tat is dwindling. As a double whammy I think that more people are wanting watches, either to work on, or as a way to differentiate themselves from the Apple Watch and FitBit crowd. The upshot is that half decent watches that require restoration are now $500 instead of $100 and cheaper watches (Seiko 5 etc) are now $50 instead of $10, and even Mumbai Specials and garbage are now pushing $50 each. When - how long will this last, I think that most of the people who are returning to mechanical watches are those that have previously experienced life without them and want to return to something with a bit of personality that doesn't buzz every 10 seconds on your wrist and tell you how many steps you have done today. i.e. the 30-40+ generation. My son who is 17 has several mechanical watches but only wears one on a special occasion and is obviously only aware of them at all in part due to my hobby. I asked him the other day how many of his friends wear a watch and he told me that some use a smart watch but most just use their phones. So as I see it, demand will start to fall once the sub-thirty crowd start becoming the majority and/or the older amongst us stop buying watches and switch our attention to mobility scooters and trying to remember our bank password. Price - I think this is here to stay, even if demand does start to drop as the older generation becomes to decrepit and stops buying and the younger generation isn't interested in buying, supply will become progressively less as time goes on as more vintage watches become lost or broken beyond repair. I think the prices will plateau at some point as an equilibrium is reached as reduced demand is balanced with reduced supply, i.e. less and less people buying less and less watches. Sorry for the long ramble!
    • Hi. Use a PVA based glue, gorilla glue it dries transparent then do as advised by Old Hippy, smoothe down using very fine  0000 wire wool and either French polish or beeswax for a finish.
    • Hello and welcome to the forum.    Enjoy
    • The problem with oil in particular 9010 is it likes to spread. This is why you're supposed to use epilam anywhere it's used to keep the oil in place. Then you want to splurge on money you could buy 941 it's actually an oil that existed before 9415. Then the problem with the grease yes it stays in place but if you have too much you lose amplitude. Then if you get really obsessed with this he would follow Omega's recommendation for escapement lubrication. One of the problems with internal documents of the watch companies is typically are never going to see Them.But a few of them out in the wild for instance at this link Below I searched for the keyword of working. In particular working instructions of the Omega watch company for which there is way more than This but this is all they have. So you want to download number 40 as were going to talk about that and also download Number 81. Plus anything else that looks interesting https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=Working Then number 40 covers lubrication of the watch. Most interesting is lubrication of the lever escapement under three different conditions with Lubrifar Which you probably no longer have has been washed off without which is what you have and then a course with epilam. Notice how they go supers super minimalistic with the 9415 because if it's too heavy you lose amplitude. Then if you lose amplitude the group will be disappointed with you and the end of the world will come.      
    • You would always get an answer John, you dont need to be dramatic or humerous to get one, but it was appreciated anyway 🙂 Kind of, for those of us that wish to stay in touch and continue to learn from each other in case the forum ever dissappears then yes i suppose so . I  hope that you would also count yourself in , what we learn from you is invaluable,  how you benefit from that exactly I'm not sure, being able to teach ? I did say is it ok to ask mark for some input John and suggested that he might read the thread that explains how some of us feel. I dont see how its really discussing forum policy, but in all honesty i wish i had never even bothered now.
×
×
  • Create New...