Jump to content

Seiko 5606a Automatic Winding Mechanism

jyard
 Share

Recommended Posts

jyard Member

jyard

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

This is my first attempt at dismantling and reassembling a watch, so please bear with me. So far so good though, with only one screw pinging off into the ether.

However, I am having some issue with the first reverser idler. Prior to putting this in, everything is running well and the watch can be manually wound as usual but, when I put it in it can still be manually wound but it feels odd, like it's being restricted somehow, also the manual wind is turning the reverser idler, which I am not sure it should do? The reverse idler when turned is winding the watch as it should do.

I have stripped back a couple of times now, followed the technical sheet and ensured everything is meshed together but it still doesn't feel right.

Any suggestions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
On 7/10/2022 at 5:57 AM, jyard said:

This is my first attempt at dismantling and reassembling a watch,

interesting choice for your first watch? What was the condition of the watch like before you disassemble and did you do any cleaning of the watch

On 7/10/2022 at 5:57 AM, jyard said:

reverser idler

then always nice if you would include pictures because not everyone will be familiar with every single watch. usually Seiko's are pretty easy because they use the magic lever they don't typically have a reverse wheel. At least not the newer ones typically.

then for everyone not familiar I have attached an image snipped out of the technical documentation

are you sure the problem was with the reverse idler? Typically with automatic watches other than modern Seiko is that magic levers there is a wheel or wheels that allow the automatic way to turn in either direction but only wind in one direction. Usually lubrication of those is extremely critical. Sometimes require special lubrication otherwise the experiences you're having maybe what you're seeing. In other words if that wheel is not functioning correctly then you'll have a problem but that is only a speculation.

 

Seiko automatic vintage.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jyard Member

jyard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 7/11/2022 at 9:28 PM, JohnR725 said:

interesting choice for your first watch? What was the condition of the watch like before you disassemble and did you do any cleaning of the watch

Yes, probably jumped into the deep end a bit there and a pocket watch would have been better. Condition was very dirty case and slightly dirty movement. I cleaned everything in lighter fluid in an ultrasonic cleaner and oiled according to the technical sheet with Moebius 9010 and Moebius 9104.

On 7/11/2022 at 9:28 PM, JohnR725 said:

are you sure the problem was with the reverse idler?

Frankly, no. To be clear, everything is technically "working" as it should. It is just that when it is all put together the manual wind doesn't feel right. Now I think about it and looking at that diagram, I may need to pull the differential wheel out, give it another clean and oil it again. Everything else in that part of the movement looks fine, its all meshed properly, no broken teeth etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted

found two separate YouTube videos on servicing the watch. The second video seems more impressive than the first video. While the problems with YouTube videos are often times a 10 the make things look a lot easier than they are. The second video the person seems to grasp some of the known problems of this watch don't know if he covers the problem that you're having

On 7/11/2022 at 1:28 PM, JohnR725 said:

What was the condition of the watch like before you disassemble and did you do any cleaning of the watch

one of the reasons I have the condition of the watch before it was serviced was to determine whether you had a problem before or the problem came after?

4 hours ago, jyard said:

It is just that when it is all put together the manual wind doesn't feel right.

then often times especially with the keyless works things may not feel quite right after not lubricated right that has a problem was Seiko watches in that trying to figure out what their lubrication's are equal to. Like for instance the s4 oil found at the third link below the indication is it's really a grease. So you're using of the heavy oil is recommended with the Swiss companies and personally prefer to see a grease here like what Seiko is doing. But no idea whether that's your problem or not it's probably just the reverse or wheel is I would call it. Typically these have very exacting requirements for lubrication and each brand or company is different on how they expect this to be done

then I have a different PDF from Seiko on lubricating this watch

 

 

 

 

https://youtu.be/CA-pdrMNRd4

https://youtu.be/6wq92zMYmSg

 

https://www.esslinger.com/watchmakers-seiko-s-4-watch-grease/

 

 

Seiko-Oil-5606A.PDF

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Razz
      £10:10 Club

      By Razz · Posted

      I just can't beleive my luck. A landeron 48 chrono in working order for $10US or £7.83. Picked it out of a box at a swap meet this morning. Seemed gummed up and not working. Messing with it proceeded to drop it on the ground, lucky it hit my foot first and seems to have survived. Only has 2 lugs, but they are on the top of the watch case. Is plated brass so not sure if new lugs can be added or not. Here is what it looked like out of the box. Then I got it home and started messing with it and changed out the crystal and went through it. Appears to need just a servicing and case work. The best for last is the dial is pretty spectacular! No water damage. Anyone hear of Dorex? Is 33.8mm not including crown and pushers.
    • Knebo
      I need some encouragement, next step, reboot advice

      By Knebo · Posted

      With all the good and valuable reading recommended here, I strongly support your spirit of continuing to practice and getting your hands dirty. Keep going!  Just a little thing. The lift angle for ST36 should be 44 degrees. So the true amplitude is quite a bit lower. But still good.    Does this mean you've never been lubricating your watches when assembling? If not, you should really focus on practicing that. Correct oils/grease, oiling points and quantities are a big and fundamental thing to learn. 
    • Bill2024
      Can’t get dial to stay on a st3620

      By Bill2024 · Posted

      The dial I bought was this one. It is for the st3620. It seems to fit the movement and the dial feet and seconds subdial seem to be in the right place.    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007923938823.html
    • AndyGSi
      Can’t get dial to stay on a st3620

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      What diel did you get and is it specifically for the ST36**?
    • Knebo
      JLC 929/3 Master Geographic (base JLC 889/2, IWC 3253, AP 2124)

      By Knebo · Posted

      Thanks, I'll look into this a bit further.    For now, as I'm still waiting for a new mainspring, I started assembly with the keyless works.    First, I still need to disassemble the canon pinion A scalpel slid between the parts and it came apart easily.  Through the cleaning machine again..  Then 9504 on the shaft and a bit on the base Pushed together on a hard flat surface with hand setting pushers.  The excess 9504, I'm removing with Rodico.    Oiling posts with HP1300 (wider parts, top and bottom).   Canon pinion and minute wheel need to go on at the same time. A bit fiddly. I add a tiny tiny drop of HP1300 on the elevated ring below the minute wheel (red arrow).    More posts, HP1300.  Note that the elevated ring on the plate has no purpose. The wheel goes on with the bigger side up.  Remember that the rounded side goes downwards.    Post for the rocking bar, HP1300, small amount, careful spread around the post.  Oiling the riveted wheel on the rocking bar is a bit tricky. There's not enough space for even my smallest oiler to really get in-between... so I use a scalpel. A bit messy. Rodico for some cleaning.  The three positions of the rocking bar. 1. Time setting, 2. Winding, 3. Setting the hour on the second time zone.  Cover plate on.    On now moving to the train side of the keyless works (interesting and unusual design).  9504 greasing of sliding/winding pinion and stem Positioning is straight forward  9504 also here. Distributing it by turning the stem.    Lubricating edges of rocking bar and setting lever spring with 9504. Honestly, positioning the setting lever was very fiddly. I tried various positions of the rocking bar and I'm not sure which one finally worked....   Securing setting lever with screw and then the stop operating lever. Greasing (9504) the touching points with the hacking lever, then removing excess with fresh Rodico.    Placing seat for yoke. Note that there's a top/bottom side. If it doesn't place easily, don't force it, just turn around.  Carefully spreading 9504 around the hole of the yoke (since this doesn't turn 360°, I make the effort to spread it out).  After positioning and securing the yoke, I also observe and grease the touching point between yoke and hacking lever.    That concludes the keyless works. 
×
×
  • Create New...