Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi,

Apologies in advance for what I'm sure will be a simple set of questions.

I recently got a Limit 25 jewel vintage watch missing a strap and crown. I got a strap fitted ok and I managed to fit the crown ok but it's not right so I have three questions:

1. I got a size 10 / 4mm standard crown which seems to screw in ok but it sits proud of the case so its obviously not right. Despite reading loads of articles about crowns, I don't know what type I should be fitting and how to size it appropriately for the watch.

2. Now its screwed on, how do I remove the crown - the stem rotates freely in the anticlockwise so how do hold it in order to remove the crown? 

3. The movement / face rotates in the watch if you move the crown. I suspect due to an incorrect crown but could be for other reasons. If I have the right crown will it resolve this issue?

Thanks

IMG_20220705_103748.jpg

Edited by tututim
Forgot to follow
Posted

Hi To remove the crown will require you to open the watch  (remove the back). You said its 17 jewel so therfore mechanical. Normaly to remove the stem and crown there is a screw adjacent to the stem input this needs baching off 1 1/2 turns and the stem should release.   The face rotates?   as you wind the crown does it just move within the case or rotate fully?  If it just moves the case movement seperator is either broken or missing . If it rotates all round the dial feet are broken.

Once you get the back off re post a picture of the front , back  of the movement and the case where the stem fits.  From that we can possibly find the caliber on the movement and progress from there.  From your picture I would deduce that the crown is a flush fit and doesnt have a tube. as per the pictures.         cheers

crown 2.jpg

watch crown.jpg

Posted

Hi watchweasol,

Thanks for the feedback. Here's a couple of pictures of the back of the movement and stem/crown. From your description I'm not sure which screws I should be adjusting to remove the stem.

thanks

IMG_20220705_123649.jpg

IMG_20220705_123656.jpg

Posted

Thanks for the pictures.  To remove the stem, on the picture there is just to the right of the stem hole with two slots in it  this is for the screw driver to press down on the release lever. As I cant see what the movement is to be on the safe side pull out the stem to setting position and then release the lever. DONT press down too hard or you will displace the keyless work. and as you press down pull the stem out at the same time.  with some watches ETA2824 not pulling the stem out to the set position and then removing the stem the sliding pinion drops and you cannot get the stem back in and its a dismantle job to refit it so be careful.  do you have a picture of the full movement back? under the balance wheel there should be a number and a logo ie   ETA 2824 or the like if so can you post it   thanks. 

Posted
10 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

DONT press down too hard

If you use a 1mm screwdriver it will just fit the slot, allowing you to only push the release as far as it needs to go and no further, thus significantly reducing the risk of upsetting the keyless works.

From your photos it looks to me like that case should have a pendant tube which is missing and will need to be replaced if you want to fit the correct crown for the watch, which yours isn't. Better photos of the whole watch and of the case where the stem enters will help.

Posted

Hi @watchweasoland @Marc

Thank you very much for posting, I really appreciate your help. I found a number under the balance wheel as you described. The its 2783 so I assume its an ETA 2783. I also attach some more pictures which are hopefully better. I have some screwdrivers on order so I can get the stem out when they arrive.

If you could let me know if I need to get a pendant tube  - I have some venier calipers - I'm assuming I would use these to measure?

Thanks Tim

I've got some IMG_20220707_113521.thumb.jpg.2e9de690d88acfd4371ea4df0865edc3.jpgIMG_20220707_113708.thumb.jpg.06bb07da506c55694ba686bec702dfdb.jpgIMG_20220707_113752.thumb.jpg.26d34735eea767a8f7ccea65081c1804.jpgIMG_20220707_113739.thumb.jpg.fa09b26930bd7f2d5b41cc6ee390a666.jpgIMG_20220707_113636.thumb.jpg.6b0ee1b6d6b3b35da2c813820b92eae4.jpgIMG_20220707_113552.thumb.jpg.3b0146fe3673f0eeb1fc2bb61fd9b930.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...